Lima, Peru travel guide

The food capital of South America, served on cliffs above the Pacific.

Best time to visit: December-April (sunny season)
Average daily budget: $70 to $130 USD
Ideal trip length: 3 to 4 days

Lima is where serious eaters come before Machu Picchu - and many leave wishing they'd given it more days. Three of the world's 50 best restaurants, ceviche on the cliffs of Miraflores, and a colonial centre that surprises everyone. Joy Plus books the impossible reservations and routes your days between Barranco's bohemian streets and Miraflores' Pacific views.

Lima itinerary

Day 1, Get oriented

Morning: Lunch at Central or Maido. Two of the world's top restaurants. Book 3 months ahead, no exceptions.

Afternoon: Explore Miraflores, Cliff-top parks, malls, where most travellers stay. Safe and walkable.

Evening: Ceviche at La Mar (lunch only). Don't eat ceviche for dinner here - it's a lunch dish, fish is freshest by 2pm.

Day 2, Go deeper

Morning: Larco Museum + Pueblo Libre lunch. Pre-Columbian gold and the famous erotic ceramics. The on-site restaurant is excellent.

Afternoon: Explore Barranco, Bohemian, street art, the city's best bars and the bridge of sighs.

Evening: Walk Miraflores cliffs to Barranco at sunset. Two hours, Pacific the whole way, ends at a pisco sour.

Day 3, Hidden side

Morning: Huaca Pucllana - 1,500-year-old adobe pyramid in the middle of Miraflores. Dinner restaurant on-site.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore San Isidro, Upscale, leafy, business district with great restaurants.

Evening: Eat your way through Barranco and Miraflores. Lima is South America's food capital. Book a ceviche lunch at a cevichería, hit a pisco bar in bohemian Barranco, and if budget allows, snag a table at a world-ranked tasting menu.

Best neighbourhoods

Miraflores: Cliff-top parks, malls, where most travellers stay. Safe and walkable.
Barranco: Bohemian, street art, the city's best bars and the bridge of sighs.
San Isidro: Upscale, leafy, business district with great restaurants.
Centro Histórico: Colonial plazas, baroque churches, the original Lima.
Pueblo Libre: Local life, the Larco Museum, less touristy lunches.

Must-do experiences

Lunch at Central or Maido: Two of the world's top restaurants. Book 3 months ahead, no exceptions.
Ceviche at La Mar (lunch only): Don't eat ceviche for dinner here - it's a lunch dish, fish is freshest by 2pm.
Walk Miraflores cliffs to Barranco at sunset: Two hours, Pacific the whole way, ends at a pisco sour.
Larco Museum + Pueblo Libre lunch: Pre-Columbian gold and the famous erotic ceramics. The on-site restaurant is excellent.
Eat your way through Barranco and Miraflores: Lima is South America's food capital. Book a ceviche lunch at a cevichería, hit a pisco bar in bohemian Barranco, and if budget allows, snag a table at a world-ranked tasting menu.
Clifftop walk along the Miraflores Malecón: Paved paths atop the cliffs above the Pacific, with parks, paragliders and sunset over the ocean. Walk from Parque Kennedy down to the Puente de los Suspiros in Barranco.

Hidden gems

Huaca Pucllana - 1,500-year-old adobe pyramid in the middle of Miraflores. Dinner restaurant on-site.
Mercado Surquillo No. 1 for a real Lima market with no tourist markup.
Monasterio de San Francisco catacombs.
Sunday in Pueblo Libre - locals only, pollería lunches.

Daily budget

$70 to $130 USD per day.

What to eat

Ceviche at La Mar or El Mercado
Lomo saltado at Isolina (Barranco)
Anticuchos at Grimanesa Vargas (Miraflores street stand)
Pisco sour at Ayahuasca bar in Barranco

Getting around

Use Uber and InDriver - cheap, safe, no haggling. Avoid street taxis. The Metropolitano bus is fine for Centro from Miraflores. Walk within Miraflores and Barranco - they're connected by a 30-minute cliff-side path.

Safety

Miraflores, Barranco, San Isidro are very safe day and night. Centro is fine in daytime, less so after dark - take an Uber back. Avoid flashing phones and watches in any neighbourhood. Solo travellers are common; women solo are comfortable in the safer districts.

Frequently asked questions

How many days do you need in Lima?

Three days is enough to eat well, see Miraflores and Barranco, and visit Centro. Four if you want to do all the top restaurants without rushing. Most travellers use Lima as a 2-3 day stop before flying to Cusco.

Is Lima safe?

Miraflores, Barranco and San Isidro are very safe. Centro, Callao and outer districts require more awareness. Stick to Uber/InDriver, not street taxis. Pickpocketing exists, violent crime against tourists is rare in safe districts.

When's the best time to visit Lima?

December to April is summer - sunny, warm, beach-friendly. May to November is overcast and grey (locals call it 'la garúa'), though never cold. Food is great year-round.

Is Lima worth visiting or just a stopover for Machu Picchu?

Worth a stay in its own right, mainly for the food, which is among the world's best. Give it two days for the cevicherías, Barranco and the clifftop walks before flying on to Cusco.

Where should I stay in Lima?

Miraflores for safety, ocean cliffs and convenience, or Barranco for a bohemian, arty, walkable vibe with the best bars. Both are the recommended bases; avoid staying in the gritty centre.

When is the best time to visit Lima?

December to April brings real sun and beach weather. From May to November Lima sits under the garúa, a grey coastal mist, though the food and museums don't care what the sky's doing.

How much does a trip to Lima cost?

Budget around $70 to $130 USD per person per day, covering a mid range room, local transport, two or three meals out and an activity or entry ticket. You can go lower with hostels, markets and free walking tours, or far higher with boutique hotels and private guides.

How much does a solo trip to Lima cost?

Budget on roughly $70-$130 USD per day in Lima as a solo traveller. That covers a hostel bed or simple room, local food, getting around and a couple of paid sights. Mid-range comfort with private rooms, sit-down dinners and the odd tour runs closer to double, while shoestring travellers who cook and stick to street food can come in under it.

How do you get around Lima?

Tours and activities in Lima | Lima in 3 days | Lima in 5 days | Lima in 7 days