Reno, United States travel guide

High-desert casino city at the gateway to Lake Tahoe and the Sierra Nevada.

Best time to visit: May-June and September-October
Average daily budget: $120 to $260 USD
Ideal trip length: 2 to 4 days

Reno calls itself the Biggest Little City in the World and has spent the last decade becoming something more interesting than a smaller Vegas: a high-desert town at 1,370m with a whitewater park running through downtown, a serious mural and maker scene in Midtown, and 20 ski resorts within an hour. The casinos still anchor the centre and are far cheaper than the Strip, but most visitors are really here for the Sierra: Lake Tahoe's north shore is 45 minutes away, and Nevada's empty desert highways start at the city limits.

Reno itinerary

Day 1, Get oriented

Morning: Day trip to Lake Tahoe. Incline Village and Sand Harbor are 45 minutes away for beaches, kayaking or a lake loop drive.

Afternoon: Explore Downtown / Riverwalk, Casinos, the Truckee River whitewater park and the arch, all walkable along the Riverwalk.

Evening: Truckee River Whitewater Park. A free engineered rapid course through downtown; tube it in summer or just watch from the Riverwalk.

Day 2, Go deeper

Morning: Nevada Museum of Art. The state's only accredited art museum, strong on land art and Great Basin work.

Afternoon: Explore Midtown, Reno's best strip: murals, vintage shops, third-wave coffee and independent restaurants.

Evening: National Automobile Museum. Over 200 cars from the Harrah collection, one of the best in the country.

Day 3, Hidden side

Morning: Ski the Sierra. Mt Rose is 40 minutes from downtown at the highest base elevation in the Tahoe area.

Afternoon: Explore University / North Valleys, UNR campus, the Nevada Museum and quieter, cheaper accommodation.

Evening: Virginia City, a preserved 1860s silver-rush town 40 minutes southeast.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Best neighbourhoods

Downtown / Riverwalk: Casinos, the Truckee River whitewater park and the arch, all walkable along the Riverwalk.
Midtown: Reno's best strip: murals, vintage shops, third-wave coffee and independent restaurants.
University / North Valleys: UNR campus, the Nevada Museum and quieter, cheaper accommodation.
Sparks: Neighbouring city with Victorian Square events and the Nugget, plus family-friendly lodging.

Must-do experiences

Day trip to Lake Tahoe: Incline Village and Sand Harbor are 45 minutes away for beaches, kayaking or a lake loop drive.
Truckee River Whitewater Park: A free engineered rapid course through downtown; tube it in summer or just watch from the Riverwalk.
Nevada Museum of Art: The state's only accredited art museum, strong on land art and Great Basin work.
National Automobile Museum: Over 200 cars from the Harrah collection, one of the best in the country.
Ski the Sierra: Mt Rose is 40 minutes from downtown at the highest base elevation in the Tahoe area.

Hidden gems

Virginia City, a preserved 1860s silver-rush town 40 minutes southeast.
The Basque restaurants of downtown, serving family-style picon punch dinners.
Pyramid Lake's tufa formations, an hour north on the Paiute reservation.
Rancho San Rafael Park for the Great Basin garden and July balloon races.

Daily budget

$120 to $260 USD per day.

What to eat

Basque family-style dinners with lamb and picon punch
Cheap late-night casino steak and shrimp specials
Midtown food halls and craft breweries
Awful Awful burger at a downtown institution

Getting around

Downtown and Midtown link by the free RTC bus or a 20-minute walk, but everything else needs a car. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is 10 minutes from downtown with direct flights across the western US, making it the cheapest gateway to north Tahoe. Rent a car for Tahoe, Virginia City and the desert; in winter carry chains, as Mt Rose Highway and I-80 over Donner Pass both require them in storms.

Safety

Reno is generally safe, but the downtown casino corridor has visible homelessness and occasional aggressive panhandling, particularly at night on East 4th Street. Standard casino-city caution applies with valuables and alcohol. Altitude at 1,370m rising to 2,600m at Tahoe passes causes dehydration and shortness of breath. Winter driving is the main hazard: passes close in storms, and summer brings wildfire smoke that can make air quality poor for days.

Frequently asked questions

How many days do you need in Reno?

Two to four. One for downtown, Midtown and the Riverwalk, one full day at Lake Tahoe, and a third for Virginia City or a ski day. Four if you want both a beach day and a mountain day in the same trip.

When is the best time to visit Reno?

May to June and September to October bring 20-28C days, open mountain roads and lower hotel rates. July and August are hot at 33-37C but best for Tahoe swimming. December to March is ski season, when storms can close passes for a day at a time.

Is Reno cheaper than Las Vegas?

Yes, noticeably. Hotel rooms often run $60 to $150 midweek, table minimums are lower and food is cheaper. Budget $120 to $260 a day including a rental car, which you will need for anything beyond downtown.

How far is Lake Tahoe from Reno?

Incline Village on the north shore is about 45 minutes by car via the Mt Rose Highway, and South Lake Tahoe is around 75 minutes. There is no direct train, so rent a car or use a shuttle service; in winter the Mt Rose Highway can require chains.

Is Reno worth visiting beyond the casinos?

Yes. The Midtown mural and restaurant district, the Nevada Museum of Art, the National Automobile Museum, the downtown whitewater park and access to Tahoe, Virginia City and Pyramid Lake all stand on their own.

Can you ski from Reno?

Easily. Mt Rose is about 40 minutes from downtown, and roughly a dozen Tahoe resorts including Palisades and Northstar are within 60 to 90 minutes. Staying in Reno and driving up is usually far cheaper than lodging at the lake.

What is Reno known for?

Its casinos and the Biggest Little City arch, being the closest airport to north Lake Tahoe, the Truckee River whitewater park, Basque dining, Burning Man's staging city role and events like Hot August Nights and the balloon races.

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