Hangzhou in 7 days

West Lake poetry: pagodas on misty water, dragon-well tea hills and China's most romantic city. Best time to visit: March-May & September-November. Average daily budget: $50 to $110 USD.

Day 1, Land & wander

Base: West Lake (Xihu), The UNESCO-listed heart: causeways, islands, pagodas and lakeside promenades.

Morning: Lingyin Temple and Feilai Peak. One of China's great Buddhist temples amid grottoes of carved stone Buddhas.

Afternoon: Explore West Lake (Xihu), The UNESCO-listed heart: causeways, islands, pagodas and lakeside promenades.

Evening: West Lake by boat and on foot. Cruise to the islands, then walk Su Causeway at dawn and Bai Causeway at dusk.

Eat: West Lake vinegar fish (xihu cu yu), the city's signature sweet-sour carp

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: Hefang Street, The restored old street of snack stalls, medicine halls and craft shops.

Morning: Tea tasting in Longjing. Sip pre-Qingming dragon-well tea in the village where it's grown, then hike the terraces.

Afternoon: Explore Hefang Street, The restored old street of snack stalls, medicine halls and craft shops.

Evening: Leifeng Pagoda at sunset. Climb the rebuilt pagoda for the classic panorama over the whole lake.

Eat: Dongpo pork, slow-braised belly named for the poet-governor

Day 3, Food & markets

Base: Longjing (Dragon Well) village, Tea terraces and tasting houses in the hills where China's most famous green tea grows.

Morning: Nine Creeks and Misty Trees, a stream-side walking path through tea fields to the Qiantang River.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Longjing (Dragon Well) village, Tea terraces and tasting houses in the hills where China's most famous green tea grows.

Evening: The China National Tea Museum set in its own tea garden.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Longjing shrimp, river shrimp stir-fried with dragon-well tea leaves

Day 4, Local neighbourhoods

Base: Lingyin area, The temple valley of the Buddha's Peak, with carved grottoes and incense smoke.

Morning: Xiling Seal Art Society's garden on Gushan island, the lake's quietest corner.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Lingyin area, The temple valley of the Buddha's Peak, with carved grottoes and incense smoke.

Evening: Dawn tai chi and ballroom dancing along the lakeside, the city's living ritual.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Beggar's chicken, baked in lotus leaf and clay

Day 5, Day trip

Base: Xixi Wetland, A tranquil waterworld of canals and reeds on the city's west side.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Xixi Wetland, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Xixi Wetland, A tranquil waterworld of canals and reeds on the city's west side.

Evening: Dinner at West Lake vinegar fish (xihu cu yu), the city's signature sweet-sour carp, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Xixi Wetland.

Eat: West Lake vinegar fish (xihu cu yu), the city's signature sweet-sour carp

Day 6, Hidden gems

Base: West Lake (Xihu), The UNESCO-listed heart: causeways, islands, pagodas and lakeside promenades.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in West Lake (Xihu), then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore West Lake (Xihu), The UNESCO-listed heart: causeways, islands, pagodas and lakeside promenades.

Evening: Dinner at Dongpo pork, slow-braised belly named for the poet-governor, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in West Lake (Xihu).

Eat: Dongpo pork, slow-braised belly named for the poet-governor

Day 7, Slow finish

Base: Hefang Street, The restored old street of snack stalls, medicine halls and craft shops.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Hefang Street, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Hefang Street, The restored old street of snack stalls, medicine halls and craft shops.

Evening: Dinner at Longjing shrimp, river shrimp stir-fried with dragon-well tea leaves, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Hefang Street.

Eat: Longjing shrimp, river shrimp stir-fried with dragon-well tea leaves

Hidden gems

Nine Creeks and Misty Trees, a stream-side walking path through tea fields to the Qiantang River.
The China National Tea Museum set in its own tea garden.
Xiling Seal Art Society's garden on Gushan island, the lake's quietest corner.
Dawn tai chi and ballroom dancing along the lakeside, the city's living ritual.

Getting around

Hangzhou Xiaoshan Airport is 30 km east, about an hour by metro Line 1 or taxi. High-speed trains connect Shanghai in 45 to 75 minutes and Suzhou in 1.5 hours. The city has an excellent metro and was a pioneer of public bike-sharing; around West Lake, walking, cycling and the lake's electric shuttle boats are the way to go.

Safety

Hangzhou is very safe with minimal crime; standard big-city awareness suffices. The main annoyances are tea-house scams, where friendly 'students' invite you to overpriced tastings, so decline unsolicited invitations and buy tea at established shops. Summer is hot and humid, weekend crowds at the lake are intense, and cashless payment via Alipay or WeChat is nearly essential.

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