Montpellier in 5 days

A young, sun-soaked university city with a medieval core, bold modern architecture and beaches 20 minutes away. Best time to visit: May-June and September. Average daily budget: $105 to $185 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: L'Ecusson, The shield-shaped medieval centre: Place de la Comedie, hidden mansions, and most restaurants and bars.

Morning: Promenade du Peyrou. A terraced esplanade with an aqueduct, triumphal arch and a long view to the Cevennes on clear days.

Afternoon: Explore L'Ecusson, The shield-shaped medieval centre: Place de la Comedie, hidden mansions, and most restaurants and bars.

Evening: Place de la Comedie. The huge egg-shaped square at the heart of the city, best with a coffee at the edge in the early evening.

Eat: Oysters and tielle from the Etang de Thau near Sete

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: Antigone, Ricardo Bofill's monumental neoclassical district, a startling 1980s counterpoint to the old town.

Morning: Musee Fabre. One of France's strongest regional art collections, from Rubens to Soulages.

Afternoon: Explore Antigone, Ricardo Bofill's monumental neoclassical district, a startling 1980s counterpoint to the old town.

Evening: Tram to Palavas or Carnon. Mediterranean sand roughly half an hour from the city centre for the price of a tram ticket.

Eat: Pastis and tapenade on a Comedie terrace

Day 3, Local neighbourhoods

Base: Beaux-Arts, Leafy residential streets north of the centre with markets and neighbourhood bistros.

Morning: The Jardin des Plantes, France's oldest botanical garden, founded in 1593 and free to enter.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Beaux-Arts, Leafy residential streets north of the centre with markets and neighbourhood bistros.

Evening: Hotel particuliers courtyards in the Ecusson, quietly open to visitors on certain afternoons.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Grisettes, the honey-and-liquorice sweets specific to Montpellier

Day 4, Day trip or nature

Base: Port Marianne, Modern waterside quarter of contemporary architecture, heading toward the sea.

Morning: Le Mikve, a rare medieval Jewish ritual bath under the old town.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Port Marianne, Modern waterside quarter of contemporary architecture, heading toward the sea.

Evening: Halles Castellane and Halles Laissac for market lunches locals actually eat.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Languedoc reds and Picpoul de Pinet from the surrounding vineyards

Day 5, Slow finish

Base: L'Ecusson, The shield-shaped medieval centre: Place de la Comedie, hidden mansions, and most restaurants and bars.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in L'Ecusson, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore L'Ecusson, The shield-shaped medieval centre: Place de la Comedie, hidden mansions, and most restaurants and bars.

Evening: Dinner at Oysters and tielle from the Etang de Thau near Sete, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in L'Ecusson.

Eat: Oysters and tielle from the Etang de Thau near Sete

Hidden gems

The Jardin des Plantes, France's oldest botanical garden, founded in 1593 and free to enter.
Hotel particuliers courtyards in the Ecusson, quietly open to visitors on certain afternoons.
Le Mikve, a rare medieval Jewish ritual bath under the old town.
Halles Castellane and Halles Laissac for market lunches locals actually eat.

Getting around

The Ecusson is pedestrian-only and walkable end to end in 20 minutes. Four colourful tram lines cover everything else, including the beaches at Palavas via Perols and the two train stations. TGV trains reach Paris in about 3 hours 20 minutes, Barcelona in around 3, and Nimes or Sete in under half an hour.

Safety

Montpellier is safe by day and busy into the evening, but it has more petty crime than nearby smaller towns. Keep phones and bags secure around Place de la Comedie and on late trams, and be sensible in the Gambetta and station areas after midnight. Beach thefts from unattended bags are common in summer.

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