Olbia in 3 days

The gateway to Sardinia's Costa Smeralda: white-sand beaches, nuragic ruins and a genuinely local old town. Best time to visit: May-June and September. Average daily budget: $110 to $200 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Centro Storico, The pedestrian old town around Corso Umberto with restaurants and wine bars.

Morning: La Maddalena Archipelago. Boat trip to the protected islands' turquoise coves and pink-sand Spiaggia Rosa.

Afternoon: Explore Centro Storico, The pedestrian old town around Corso Umberto with restaurants and wine bars.

Evening: Spiaggia di Pittulongu. Swim at Olbia's own white-sand beach with Tavolara island on the horizon.

Eat: Porceddu, Sardinian suckling pig roasted over myrtle

Day 2, Go deeper

Base: Pittulongu, The closest beach strip, 10 minutes north, with white sand and sea views.

Morning: Tavolara island. Take the boat from Porto San Paolo to the dramatic limestone island for snorkelling.

Afternoon: Explore Pittulongu, The closest beach strip, 10 minutes north, with white sand and sea views.

Evening: Nuraghe Riu Mulinu & Giants' Tombs. Explore Bronze Age nuragic ruins above the gulf, including Su Mont'e s'Abe.

Eat: Culurgiones, hand-pinched stuffed pasta

Day 3, Hidden side

Base: Porto Rotondo, A polished yachting village 15 minutes up the coast.

Morning: San Pantaleo's Thursday artisan market and granite village bars.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Porto Rotondo, A polished yachting village 15 minutes up the coast.

Evening: The Cabu Abbas nuraghe viewpoint over the whole gulf at sunset.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Bottarga and seafood spaghetti by the port

Hidden gems

San Pantaleo's Thursday artisan market and granite village bars.
The Cabu Abbas nuraghe viewpoint over the whole gulf at sunset.
Capo Ceraso's empty granite coves south of the city.
Vernaccia and Vermentino tastings at small wineries around Telti.

Getting around

Olbia Costa Smeralda airport is 5km from town with flights across Europe, and ferries link the port to Civitavecchia, Livorno and Genoa. The old town is walkable and summer buses reach Pittulongu and Porto Rotondo, but a car is close to essential for the beaches, Costa Smeralda, La Maddalena ferry at Palau and the nuragic sites. Roads are good and driving is relaxed outside August.

Safety

Olbia and the Costa Smeralda are very safe, with crime largely limited to theft from cars at beach car parks, so leave nothing visible. The real hazards are natural: the mistral wind whips up seas and sand, sun is fierce from May to September, and jellyfish occasionally appear in late summer. Book everything far ahead for August, when Sardinia fills with Italian holidaymakers.

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