Zadar in 3 days

Roman ruins, a sea organ and Croatia's best sunset, with the Kornati islands on the doorstep. Best time to visit: May-June and September. Average daily budget: $80 to $140 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Old Town (Poluotok), The walled peninsula holding the Roman forum, St Donatus, marble streets and the Sea Organ.

Morning: Roman Forum & St Donatus. Walk the largest Roman forum on the eastern Adriatic beside the 9th-century circular church.

Afternoon: Explore Old Town (Poluotok), The walled peninsula holding the Roman forum, St Donatus, marble streets and the Sea Organ.

Evening: Sea Organ & Greeting to the Sun. Hear the waves play the marble steps, then watch the solar light installation fire up after dark.

Eat: Pašticada, slow-braised beef in wine with gnocchi

Day 2, Go deeper

Base: Riva & Sea Organ, The waterfront promenade at the peninsula's tip where the sunset crowd gathers each evening.

Morning: Kornati Islands boat trip. Sail out to the bare, otherworldly archipelago of 89 islands for swimming and lunch aboard.

Afternoon: Explore Riva & Sea Organ, The waterfront promenade at the peninsula's tip where the sunset crowd gathers each evening.

Evening: Plitvice or Krka day trip. Reach either waterfall national park in roughly 1 to 2 hours for lakes, boardwalks and swimming.

Eat: Fresh Adriatic fish grilled simply with olive oil and chard

Day 3, Hidden side

Base: Borik, The resort strip north of town with beaches, hotels and campsites on a pine-lined bay.

Morning: Climb the St Anastasia bell tower for the best view over the peninsula's red roofs.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Borik, The resort strip north of town with beaches, hotels and campsites on a pine-lined bay.

Evening: Sunset drinks on the Kolovare side away from the Riva crowds.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Pag cheese from the island just up the coast

Hidden gems

Climb the St Anastasia bell tower for the best view over the peninsula's red roofs.
Sunset drinks on the Kolovare side away from the Riva crowds.
The Museum of Ancient Glass with Roman finds and live glassblowing.
Maraschino cherry liqueur, distilled in Zadar since the 1820s.

Getting around

Zadar's old town is car-free and crossable on foot in 15 minutes, with a rowed barkajoli boat shuttling across the harbour for pocket change. City buses cover Borik and the suburbs, ferries and catamarans serve Ugljan, Dugi Otok and the Kornati, and the airport sits 15 minutes away with a shuttle timed to flights. A car helps for Plitvice, Krka and Paklenica.

Safety

Zadar is very safe, including for solo female travellers, with low crime and lively, well-lit streets through summer evenings. Standard caution against pickpockets applies in the busiest old-town lanes. Sea urchins and sharp rocks are the main beach hazard, so water shoes are worth packing.

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