Surabaya, Indonesia travel guide

Indonesia's gritty second city: colonial Java, the best street food on the island and the launchpad for Mount Bromo and Ijen.

Best time to visit: May-September
Average daily budget: $30 to $70 USD
Ideal trip length: 2 to 3 days

Surabaya doesn't court tourists, and that's the point. Java's second city is a working port town of Dutch warehouses, Arab quarters, Chinese temples and revolution monuments, with a food scene that locals swear beats Jakarta's. Most travellers pass through on their way to Mount Bromo and the blue fire of Ijen; give it 48 hours and it repays you. Joy Plus builds the city days and the volcano runs into one plan.

Surabaya itinerary

Day 1, Get oriented

Morning: Mount Bromo sunrise. Four hours away: the Penanjakan viewpoint over a sea of sand and a smoking caldera.

Afternoon: Explore Kota Lama (Old Town), Dutch-era warehouses, the Jembatan Merah bridge and the restored colonial quarter.

Evening: Kawah Ijen blue fire. An overnight hike to the sulphur crater where burning gas glows electric blue before dawn.

Day 2, Go deeper

Morning: Submarine Monument (Monkasel). A real Soviet-built submarine beached in the city centre, open to walk through.

Afternoon: Explore Arab Quarter (Ampel), The Sunan Ampel mosque complex, dates and perfume stalls, and Java's oldest Muslim district.

Evening: House of Sampoerna. A colonial clove-cigarette factory turned museum, with hand-rolling still on view.

Day 3, Hidden side

Morning: Pasar Atom for kitchenware chaos and the best lontong balap in town.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Chinatown (Kembang Jepun), Kya-Kya night market, incense-heavy temples and old trading houses.

Evening: The Hotel Majapahit lobby, where the Dutch flag was torn in 1945 to start the revolution.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Best neighbourhoods

Kota Lama (Old Town): Dutch-era warehouses, the Jembatan Merah bridge and the restored colonial quarter.
Arab Quarter (Ampel): The Sunan Ampel mosque complex, dates and perfume stalls, and Java's oldest Muslim district.
Chinatown (Kembang Jepun): Kya-Kya night market, incense-heavy temples and old trading houses.
Tunjungan: The modern spine of malls, the historic Hotel Majapahit and the city's shopping heart.
Gubeng: Leafy residential streets, cafés and the main train station for Bromo connections.

Must-do experiences

Mount Bromo sunrise: Four hours away: the Penanjakan viewpoint over a sea of sand and a smoking caldera.
Kawah Ijen blue fire: An overnight hike to the sulphur crater where burning gas glows electric blue before dawn.
Submarine Monument (Monkasel): A real Soviet-built submarine beached in the city centre, open to walk through.
House of Sampoerna: A colonial clove-cigarette factory turned museum, with hand-rolling still on view.

Hidden gems

Pasar Atom for kitchenware chaos and the best lontong balap in town.
The Hotel Majapahit lobby, where the Dutch flag was torn in 1945 to start the revolution.
Cheng Hoo Mosque: a Chinese-style mosque built like a temple.
Sunset at Suramadu bridge, the longest in Indonesia, crossing to Madura island.

Daily budget

$30 to $70 USD per day.

What to eat

Rawon: black beef soup darkened with keluak nut, Surabaya's signature
Rujak cingur: fruit and vegetable salad with cow's snout and petis shrimp paste
Lontong balap: rice cakes, bean sprouts and fried tofu in savoury broth
Sate klopo: coconut-coated satay grilled over coals on Walikota Mustajab street

Getting around

Juanda International Airport is 20km south; Grab and Gojek reach the centre in 30 to 45 minutes for a few dollars. In the city, Gojek motorbikes are the fastest way through traffic, and the Suroboyo Bus is cheap and air-conditioned. Trains from Gubeng and Pasar Turi reach Yogyakarta in 4 to 5 hours and Malang in 2. For Bromo and Ijen, most people book a jeep tour or private driver from the city.

Safety

Surabaya is safe and low-crime; the main hazards are traffic and heat. Cross roads with locals, not alone. For Ijen, a proper gas mask is essential (tour operators supply them) and altitude plus sulphur means the hike is not for weak lungs. Dress modestly in the Arab quarter and mosques. Drink bottled water and be careful with ice at the smallest stalls.

Frequently asked questions

Is Surabaya worth visiting?

Yes, if you like real cities over resort towns. Surabaya offers colonial architecture in Kota Lama, the atmospheric Arab and Chinese quarters, powerful revolution history and arguably East Java's best food, all with barely any tourists. It's also the natural base for Mount Bromo and Kawah Ijen.

How many days do you need in Surabaya?

Two days in the city itself covers Kota Lama, the Arab quarter, House of Sampoerna and the food streets. Add two to three more if you're doing Bromo and Ijen, which involve overnight trips and pre-dawn starts. Four to five days total is the comfortable version.

How do you get from Surabaya to Mount Bromo?

It's about four hours by road to Cemoro Lawang, the village on the crater rim. Most travellers book a jeep tour that leaves Surabaya in the afternoon, sleeps near the rim and heads out at 3am for sunrise. You can also train to Probolinggo and arrange local transport from there.

Can you do Bromo and Ijen in one trip?

Yes, and it's the classic East Java loop: Surabaya to Bromo for sunrise, then a long drive east to Banyuwangi for the Ijen blue fire hike at 1am, finishing with a ferry to Bali. Allow three days and two mostly sleepless nights; it's worth it.

When is the best time to visit Surabaya?

May to September is the dry season, with clearer volcano views and passable mountain tracks. October to April brings heavy rain that can obscure Bromo's sunrise and make Ijen slippery. Surabaya itself is hot and humid year-round, typically 28-34°C.

Is Surabaya safe for solo travellers?

Yes. Violent crime is rare and locals are curious and helpful, though English is less common than in Bali. Use Grab or Gojek rather than unmetered taxis, keep valuables out of sight in crowded markets, and take normal care at night in the port areas.

What food is Surabaya famous for?

Rawon, the inky black beef soup, is the city's signature dish and found nowhere better. Also try rujak cingur (a bold salad with cow's snout), lontong balap, and sate klopo, satay coated in grated coconut. East Javanese food is saltier and more petis-heavy than Central Java's sweeter cooking.

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