Surabaya in 7 days

Indonesia's gritty second city: colonial Java, the best street food on the island and the launchpad for Mount Bromo and Ijen. Best time to visit: May-September. Average daily budget: $30 to $70 USD.

Day 1, Land & wander

Base: Kota Lama (Old Town), Dutch-era warehouses, the Jembatan Merah bridge and the restored colonial quarter.

Morning: Mount Bromo sunrise. Four hours away: the Penanjakan viewpoint over a sea of sand and a smoking caldera.

Afternoon: Explore Kota Lama (Old Town), Dutch-era warehouses, the Jembatan Merah bridge and the restored colonial quarter.

Evening: Kawah Ijen blue fire. An overnight hike to the sulphur crater where burning gas glows electric blue before dawn.

Eat: Rawon: black beef soup darkened with keluak nut, Surabaya's signature

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: Arab Quarter (Ampel), The Sunan Ampel mosque complex, dates and perfume stalls, and Java's oldest Muslim district.

Morning: Submarine Monument (Monkasel). A real Soviet-built submarine beached in the city centre, open to walk through.

Afternoon: Explore Arab Quarter (Ampel), The Sunan Ampel mosque complex, dates and perfume stalls, and Java's oldest Muslim district.

Evening: House of Sampoerna. A colonial clove-cigarette factory turned museum, with hand-rolling still on view.

Eat: Rujak cingur: fruit and vegetable salad with cow's snout and petis shrimp paste

Day 3, Food & markets

Base: Chinatown (Kembang Jepun), Kya-Kya night market, incense-heavy temples and old trading houses.

Morning: Pasar Atom for kitchenware chaos and the best lontong balap in town.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Chinatown (Kembang Jepun), Kya-Kya night market, incense-heavy temples and old trading houses.

Evening: The Hotel Majapahit lobby, where the Dutch flag was torn in 1945 to start the revolution.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Lontong balap: rice cakes, bean sprouts and fried tofu in savoury broth

Day 4, Local neighbourhoods

Base: Tunjungan, The modern spine of malls, the historic Hotel Majapahit and the city's shopping heart.

Morning: Cheng Hoo Mosque: a Chinese-style mosque built like a temple.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Tunjungan, The modern spine of malls, the historic Hotel Majapahit and the city's shopping heart.

Evening: Sunset at Suramadu bridge, the longest in Indonesia, crossing to Madura island.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Sate klopo: coconut-coated satay grilled over coals on Walikota Mustajab street

Day 5, Day trip

Base: Gubeng, Leafy residential streets, cafés and the main train station for Bromo connections.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Gubeng, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Gubeng, Leafy residential streets, cafés and the main train station for Bromo connections.

Evening: Dinner at Rawon: black beef soup darkened with keluak nut, Surabaya's signature, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Gubeng.

Eat: Rawon: black beef soup darkened with keluak nut, Surabaya's signature

Day 6, Hidden gems

Base: Kota Lama (Old Town), Dutch-era warehouses, the Jembatan Merah bridge and the restored colonial quarter.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Kota Lama (Old Town), then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Kota Lama (Old Town), Dutch-era warehouses, the Jembatan Merah bridge and the restored colonial quarter.

Evening: Dinner at Rujak cingur: fruit and vegetable salad with cow's snout and petis shrimp paste, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Kota Lama (Old Town).

Eat: Rujak cingur: fruit and vegetable salad with cow's snout and petis shrimp paste

Day 7, Slow finish

Base: Arab Quarter (Ampel), The Sunan Ampel mosque complex, dates and perfume stalls, and Java's oldest Muslim district.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Arab Quarter (Ampel), then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Arab Quarter (Ampel), The Sunan Ampel mosque complex, dates and perfume stalls, and Java's oldest Muslim district.

Evening: Dinner at Lontong balap: rice cakes, bean sprouts and fried tofu in savoury broth, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Arab Quarter (Ampel).

Eat: Lontong balap: rice cakes, bean sprouts and fried tofu in savoury broth

Hidden gems

Pasar Atom for kitchenware chaos and the best lontong balap in town.
The Hotel Majapahit lobby, where the Dutch flag was torn in 1945 to start the revolution.
Cheng Hoo Mosque: a Chinese-style mosque built like a temple.
Sunset at Suramadu bridge, the longest in Indonesia, crossing to Madura island.

Getting around

Juanda International Airport is 20km south; Grab and Gojek reach the centre in 30 to 45 minutes for a few dollars. In the city, Gojek motorbikes are the fastest way through traffic, and the Suroboyo Bus is cheap and air-conditioned. Trains from Gubeng and Pasar Turi reach Yogyakarta in 4 to 5 hours and Malang in 2. For Bromo and Ijen, most people book a jeep tour or private driver from the city.

Safety

Surabaya is safe and low-crime; the main hazards are traffic and heat. Cross roads with locals, not alone. For Ijen, a proper gas mask is essential (tour operators supply them) and altitude plus sulphur means the hike is not for weak lungs. Dress modestly in the Arab quarter and mosques. Drink bottled water and be careful with ice at the smallest stalls.

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