Yellowstone, United States travel guide

A supervolcano turned wildlife theatre, with geysers on top.

Best time to visit: June-September
Average daily budget: $130 to $320 USD
Ideal trip length: 3 to 5 days

America's first national park sits on an active supervolcano, which is why half the world's geysers erupt here. Beyond Old Faithful there are wolves in Lamar Valley, bison herds stopping traffic, the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone's waterfalls and steaming rainbow springs, all spread across 2.2 million acres of Wyoming, Montana and Idaho.

Yellowstone itinerary

Day 1, Get oriented

Morning: Lamar Valley at dawn. Drive in before sunrise with binoculars for wolves, bears and bison herds.

Afternoon: Explore Old Faithful & Upper Geyser Basin, The densest geyser field on Earth, with the Old Faithful Inn as its centrepiece.

Evening: Grand Prismatic Spring. See the rainbow spring from the Fairy Falls overlook trail, not just the boardwalk.

Day 2, Go deeper

Morning: Artist Point. The postcard view of the Lower Falls plunging into the yellow canyon.

Afternoon: Explore Canyon Village, Central base for the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and its two huge falls.

Evening: Upper Geyser Basin loop. Walk past Castle, Grand and Riverside geysers between Old Faithful eruptions.

Day 3, Hidden side

Morning: Mystic Falls trail from Biscuit Basin, a short hike most bus visitors skip. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Lamar Valley, The Serengeti of North America: wolves, bears, bison and pronghorn at dawn.

Evening: Norris Geyser Basin's Porcelain Basin at first light, steaming and almost empty. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Best neighbourhoods

Old Faithful & Upper Geyser Basin: The densest geyser field on Earth, with the Old Faithful Inn as its centrepiece.
Canyon Village: Central base for the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and its two huge falls.
Lamar Valley: The Serengeti of North America: wolves, bears, bison and pronghorn at dawn.
Mammoth Hot Springs: Northern entrance area with travertine terraces and elk on the lawns.
West Yellowstone: Montana gateway town with the most hotels, restaurants and rental options.

Must-do experiences

Grand Prismatic Spring: See the rainbow spring from the Fairy Falls overlook trail, not just the boardwalk.
Lamar Valley at dawn: Drive in before sunrise with binoculars for wolves, bears and bison herds.
Artist Point: The postcard view of the Lower Falls plunging into the yellow canyon.
Upper Geyser Basin loop: Walk past Castle, Grand and Riverside geysers between Old Faithful eruptions.

Hidden gems

Mystic Falls trail from Biscuit Basin, a short hike most bus visitors skip
Norris Geyser Basin's Porcelain Basin at first light, steaming and almost empty
The Boiling River soak near Mammoth when water levels allow it to open
Hayden Valley at dusk for bison rut bellowing in late summer

Daily budget

$130 to $320 USD per day.

What to eat

Old Faithful Inn Dining Room's bison ribeye under the log cathedral ceiling
Roosevelt Lodge's Old West cookout, reached by wagon or horseback
Huckleberry everything in the gateway towns: pie, ice cream, milkshakes
Cooler picnics from Gardiner or West Yellowstone, since in-park food is limited

Getting around

You need a car; there is no public transport inside the park and the Grand Loop road is 142 miles with bison jams adding hours. Most roads close to cars from early November to late April, when snowcoaches and snowmobiles take over. Nearest airports are Bozeman (90 minutes to the west entrance), Jackson Hole (an hour to the south entrance) and Idaho Falls.

Safety

Stay 25 yards from bison and elk and 100 yards from bears and wolves; bison injure more visitors than any other animal here. Never step off boardwalks in thermal areas, where thin crust hides boiling acidic water. Carry bear spray on any trail and know how to use it. Cell service is patchy to nonexistent, so download maps and fill your tank whenever you can.

Frequently asked questions

How many days do you need in Yellowstone?

Three days is the realistic minimum to see the geyser basins, the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and one wildlife valley without living in the car. Four or five lets you add Lamar Valley dawns, longer hikes and a Grand Teton day, which sits just an hour south.

What is the best time to visit Yellowstone?

June to September has all roads and facilities open, with July and August busiest. Late May and September offer thinner crowds, active wildlife and cool days. Winter is spectacular but most roads close, and you reach Old Faithful by snowcoach or snowmobile only.

Where is the best place to stay in Yellowstone?

Inside the park, Old Faithful Inn, Lake Yellowstone Hotel and Canyon Lodge cut your morning drives drastically, but book 12-13 months ahead. West Yellowstone has the most gateway rooms and food, Gardiner is best for Lamar Valley wildlife, and Jackson suits a Teton combination.

Is Old Faithful worth seeing?

Yes, but treat it as one stop in the Upper Geyser Basin rather than the destination. It erupts roughly every 90 minutes to a predicted window, and the surrounding boardwalk loop past Grand, Castle and Riverside geysers is arguably more impressive with a fraction of the crowd.

Where can you see bears and wolves in Yellowstone?

Lamar Valley in the northeast is the best wolf-watching area on Earth outside a zoo, and Hayden Valley is strong for grizzlies and bison. Go at first light or the last hour before dark, bring binoculars or a spotting scope, and look for pulled-over cars with tripods.

How much does it cost to enter Yellowstone?

A private vehicle pass is $35 for seven days, $30 for motorcycles and $20 per person on foot or bike. The $80 America the Beautiful pass covers Yellowstone plus Grand Teton and every other national park for a year, which is worth it on almost any Wyoming road trip.

Can you visit Yellowstone and Grand Teton together?

Absolutely, and most people should. The parks share a boundary via the John D. Rockefeller Jr. Parkway, with Jackson an hour from Yellowstone's south entrance. Five to seven days lets you give Yellowstone three or four days and the Tetons two or three.

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