Yellowstone in 5 days

A supervolcano turned wildlife theatre, with geysers on top. Best time to visit: June-September. Average daily budget: $130 to $320 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Old Faithful & Upper Geyser Basin, The densest geyser field on Earth, with the Old Faithful Inn as its centrepiece.

Morning: Lamar Valley at dawn. Drive in before sunrise with binoculars for wolves, bears and bison herds.

Afternoon: Explore Old Faithful & Upper Geyser Basin, The densest geyser field on Earth, with the Old Faithful Inn as its centrepiece.

Evening: Grand Prismatic Spring. See the rainbow spring from the Fairy Falls overlook trail, not just the boardwalk.

Eat: Old Faithful Inn Dining Room's bison ribeye under the log cathedral ceiling

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: Canyon Village, Central base for the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and its two huge falls.

Morning: Artist Point. The postcard view of the Lower Falls plunging into the yellow canyon.

Afternoon: Explore Canyon Village, Central base for the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and its two huge falls.

Evening: Upper Geyser Basin loop. Walk past Castle, Grand and Riverside geysers between Old Faithful eruptions.

Eat: Roosevelt Lodge's Old West cookout, reached by wagon or horseback

Day 3, Local neighbourhoods

Base: Lamar Valley, The Serengeti of North America: wolves, bears, bison and pronghorn at dawn.

Morning: Mystic Falls trail from Biscuit Basin, a short hike most bus visitors skip. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Lamar Valley, The Serengeti of North America: wolves, bears, bison and pronghorn at dawn.

Evening: Norris Geyser Basin's Porcelain Basin at first light, steaming and almost empty. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Huckleberry everything in the gateway towns: pie, ice cream, milkshakes

Day 4, Day trip or nature

Base: Mammoth Hot Springs, Northern entrance area with travertine terraces and elk on the lawns.

Morning: The Boiling River soak near Mammoth when water levels allow it to open. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Mammoth Hot Springs, Northern entrance area with travertine terraces and elk on the lawns.

Evening: Hayden Valley at dusk for bison rut bellowing in late summer. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Cooler picnics from Gardiner or West Yellowstone, since in-park food is limited

Day 5, Slow finish

Base: West Yellowstone, Montana gateway town with the most hotels, restaurants and rental options.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in West Yellowstone, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore West Yellowstone, Montana gateway town with the most hotels, restaurants and rental options.

Evening: Dinner at Old Faithful Inn Dining Room's bison ribeye under the log cathedral ceiling, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in West Yellowstone.

Eat: Old Faithful Inn Dining Room's bison ribeye under the log cathedral ceiling

Hidden gems

Mystic Falls trail from Biscuit Basin, a short hike most bus visitors skip
Norris Geyser Basin's Porcelain Basin at first light, steaming and almost empty
The Boiling River soak near Mammoth when water levels allow it to open
Hayden Valley at dusk for bison rut bellowing in late summer

Getting around

You need a car; there is no public transport inside the park and the Grand Loop road is 142 miles with bison jams adding hours. Most roads close to cars from early November to late April, when snowcoaches and snowmobiles take over. Nearest airports are Bozeman (90 minutes to the west entrance), Jackson Hole (an hour to the south entrance) and Idaho Falls.

Safety

Stay 25 yards from bison and elk and 100 yards from bears and wolves; bison injure more visitors than any other animal here. Never step off boardwalks in thermal areas, where thin crust hides boiling acidic water. Carry bear spray on any trail and know how to use it. Cell service is patchy to nonexistent, so download maps and fill your tank whenever you can.

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