Abu Dhabi in 7 days

The calmer, grander UAE capital. A white-marble mega-mosque, the Louvre by the sea, and Formula 1 island all in one. Best time to visit: November-March. Average daily budget: $110 to $280 USD.

Day 1, Land & wander

Base: Corniche & Downtown, The waterfront promenade, beaches, and the city's polished core.

Morning: Louvre Abu Dhabi under the floating dome. Jean Nouvel's 'rain of light' dome is as much the attraction as the art inside.

Afternoon: Explore Corniche & Downtown, The waterfront promenade, beaches, and the city's polished core.

Evening: Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque at dusk. Free entry, modest dress required. Arrive before sunset to watch the marble shift from white to gold to blue.

Eat: Emirati harees and machboos at Mezlai

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: Saadiyat Island, The cultural district: Louvre Abu Dhabi, white-sand beaches, and future Guggenheim.

Morning: Qasr Al Watan presidential palace. A working palace open to visitors - the great hall and library are staggering.

Afternoon: Explore Saadiyat Island, The cultural district: Louvre Abu Dhabi, white-sand beaches, and future Guggenheim.

Evening: Corniche beach and cycle path. An 8km waterfront for swimming, cycling and sunset walks with the skyline behind you.

Eat: Fresh grilled hammour at the Al Mina fish market

Day 3, Food & markets

Base: Yas Island, Ferrari World, Warner Bros, Yas Waterworld, and the F1 circuit.

Morning: Desert safari in the Liwa dunes. The Empty Quarter's dunes are taller and emptier than Dubai's.

Afternoon: Explore Yas Island, Ferrari World, Warner Bros, Yas Waterworld, and the F1 circuit.

Evening: Yas Island theme parks. Ferrari World for the fastest roller coaster on earth, or Yas Waterworld for the heat.

Eat: Lebanese mezze at Lebanese Flower (a local institution)

Day 4, Local neighbourhoods

Base: Al Maryah Island, Upscale dining, the Galleria mall, and waterfront promenades.

Morning: Qasr Al Hosn, the restored 18th-century fort at the city's historic heart.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Al Maryah Island, Upscale dining, the Galleria mall, and waterfront promenades.

Evening: Mangrove kayaking in the Eastern Mangroves at high tide.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Karak chai from a roadside cafeteria

Day 5, Day trip

Base: Al Mina & Old Town, The fish market, dhow harbour, and a glimpse of pre-oil Abu Dhabi.

Morning: The date market and fish souk in Al Mina for an unpolished local scene.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Al Mina & Old Town, The fish market, dhow harbour, and a glimpse of pre-oil Abu Dhabi.

Evening: Observation Deck at 300 in the Etihad Towers for high tea with a view.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Emirati harees and machboos at Mezlai

Day 6, Hidden gems

Base: Corniche & Downtown, The waterfront promenade, beaches, and the city's polished core.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Corniche & Downtown, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Corniche & Downtown, The waterfront promenade, beaches, and the city's polished core.

Evening: Dinner at Fresh grilled hammour at the Al Mina fish market, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Corniche & Downtown.

Eat: Fresh grilled hammour at the Al Mina fish market

Day 7, Slow finish

Base: Saadiyat Island, The cultural district: Louvre Abu Dhabi, white-sand beaches, and future Guggenheim.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Saadiyat Island, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Saadiyat Island, The cultural district: Louvre Abu Dhabi, white-sand beaches, and future Guggenheim.

Evening: Dinner at Lebanese mezze at Lebanese Flower (a local institution), then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Saadiyat Island.

Eat: Lebanese mezze at Lebanese Flower (a local institution)

Hidden gems

Qasr Al Hosn, the restored 18th-century fort at the city's historic heart.
Mangrove kayaking in the Eastern Mangroves at high tide.
The date market and fish souk in Al Mina for an unpolished local scene.
Observation Deck at 300 in the Etihad Towers for high tea with a view.

Getting around

Taxis and Uber/Careem are cheap, metered and the easiest way around - there's no metro. Buses are clean but slow. Renting a car makes sense for Yas Island, Saadiyat and the Liwa desert. The Corniche and individual islands are walkable, but distances between districts are large, so don't plan to walk between them.

Safety

Extremely safe with very low crime; solo travellers, including women, are comfortable day and night. Dress modestly in public and especially at the Grand Mosque (long sleeves, ankle-length clothing, headscarf for women - abayas are lent free at the entrance). Alcohol is served only in licensed hotels. Summer heat (June-September) is dangerous; stay hydrated and indoors at midday.

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