Buenos Aires in 3 days

South America's most European capital. Steak, tango, and a peso that loves your dollar. Best time to visit: March-May and September-November. Average daily budget: $40 to $80 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Palermo Soho, Cobblestoned, leafy, the city's best restaurants and boutiques.

Morning: Sunday San Telmo market. Antiques, street tango, choripán.

Afternoon: Explore Palermo Soho, Cobblestoned, leafy, the city's best restaurants and boutiques.

Evening: Steak dinner at Don Julio. Book 30 days out. Or queue at 7pm with a glass of malbec.

Eat: Bife de chorizo at Don Julio or La Cabrera

Day 2, Go deeper

Base: Recoleta, Belle Époque mansions, the famous cemetery, art museums.

Morning: Recoleta cemetery. Yes, a cemetery. Find Eva Perón, get lost in the alleys.

Afternoon: Explore Recoleta, Belle Époque mansions, the famous cemetery, art museums.

Evening: A real milonga, not a tourist tango show. Skip the dinner-show package. Find a neighbourhood milonga like La Catedral, take a beginner class beforehand, and watch porteños dance until 3am. Go late, it barely starts before midnight.

Eat: Choripán from a Costanera cart

Day 3, Hidden side

Base: San Telmo, Cobblestones, Sunday antiques fair, tango on the street.

Morning: A milonga at La Catedral. Beginner-friendly, locals welcome you in.

Afternoon: Explore San Telmo, Cobblestones, Sunday antiques fair, tango on the street.

Evening: Sunday at San Telmo market. The Feria de San Telmo fills Defensa street with antiques, leather and street tango. Wander from Plaza Dorrego, eat a choripán, and stay for the impromptu milonga as the light drops.

Eat: Empanadas salteñas at El Sanjuanino

Hidden gems

El Ateneo Grand Splendid, a 100-year-old theatre turned bookstore.
Bosques de Palermo at sunset, paddle a boat on the lake.
Café San Juan in San Telmo for chef-driven food at neighbourhood prices.
MALBA on free Wednesdays.

Getting around

The Subte (metro) is cheap and covers most of the city. Use a SUBE card. Uber and Cabify both work. Walking Palermo to Recoleta takes 30 minutes through nice streets.

Safety

Generally safe in tourist barrios. Use Uber at night, avoid La Boca after dark (only daytime, and only the Caminito strip), keep your phone discreet on the subte. Carry small bills.

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