Buenos Aires in 7 days

South America's most European capital. Steak, tango, and a peso that loves your dollar. Best time to visit: March-May and September-November. Average daily budget: $40 to $80 USD.

Day 1, Land & wander

Base: Palermo Soho, Cobblestoned, leafy, the city's best restaurants and boutiques.

Morning: Sunday San Telmo market. Antiques, street tango, choripán.

Afternoon: Explore Palermo Soho, Cobblestoned, leafy, the city's best restaurants and boutiques.

Evening: Steak dinner at Don Julio. Book 30 days out. Or queue at 7pm with a glass of malbec.

Eat: Bife de chorizo at Don Julio or La Cabrera

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: Recoleta, Belle Époque mansions, the famous cemetery, art museums.

Morning: Recoleta cemetery. Yes, a cemetery. Find Eva Perón, get lost in the alleys.

Afternoon: Explore Recoleta, Belle Époque mansions, the famous cemetery, art museums.

Evening: A real milonga, not a tourist tango show. Skip the dinner-show package. Find a neighbourhood milonga like La Catedral, take a beginner class beforehand, and watch porteños dance until 3am. Go late, it barely starts before midnight.

Eat: Choripán from a Costanera cart

Day 3, Food & markets

Base: San Telmo, Cobblestones, Sunday antiques fair, tango on the street.

Morning: A milonga at La Catedral. Beginner-friendly, locals welcome you in.

Afternoon: Explore San Telmo, Cobblestones, Sunday antiques fair, tango on the street.

Evening: Sunday at San Telmo market. The Feria de San Telmo fills Defensa street with antiques, leather and street tango. Wander from Plaza Dorrego, eat a choripán, and stay for the impromptu milonga as the light drops.

Eat: Empanadas salteñas at El Sanjuanino

Day 4, Local neighbourhoods

Base: Puerto Madero, Modern dockside, fine dining, runners at sunset.

Morning: El Ateneo Grand Splendid, a 100-year-old theatre turned bookstore.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Puerto Madero, Modern dockside, fine dining, runners at sunset.

Evening: Bosques de Palermo at sunset, paddle a boat on the lake.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Dulce de leche on literally anything

Day 5, Day trip

Base: Villa Crespo, Where Palermo locals move when Palermo gets too expensive.

Morning: Café San Juan in San Telmo for chef-driven food at neighbourhood prices.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Villa Crespo, Where Palermo locals move when Palermo gets too expensive.

Evening: MALBA on free Wednesdays.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Bife de chorizo at Don Julio or La Cabrera

Day 6, Hidden gems

Base: Palermo Soho, Cobblestoned, leafy, the city's best restaurants and boutiques.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Palermo Soho, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Palermo Soho, Cobblestoned, leafy, the city's best restaurants and boutiques.

Evening: Dinner at Choripán from a Costanera cart, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Palermo Soho.

Eat: Choripán from a Costanera cart

Day 7, Slow finish

Base: Recoleta, Belle Époque mansions, the famous cemetery, art museums.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Recoleta, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Recoleta, Belle Époque mansions, the famous cemetery, art museums.

Evening: Dinner at Empanadas salteñas at El Sanjuanino, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Recoleta.

Eat: Empanadas salteñas at El Sanjuanino

Hidden gems

El Ateneo Grand Splendid, a 100-year-old theatre turned bookstore.
Bosques de Palermo at sunset, paddle a boat on the lake.
Café San Juan in San Telmo for chef-driven food at neighbourhood prices.
MALBA on free Wednesdays.

Getting around

The Subte (metro) is cheap and covers most of the city. Use a SUBE card. Uber and Cabify both work. Walking Palermo to Recoleta takes 30 minutes through nice streets.

Safety

Generally safe in tourist barrios. Use Uber at night, avoid La Boca after dark (only daytime, and only the Caminito strip), keep your phone discreet on the subte. Carry small bills.

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