Dakar in 5 days

West Africa's edge-of-the-continent capital: Atlantic surf, Gorée Island, mbalax music and the African Renaissance Monument. Best time to visit: November-May. Average daily budget: $70 to $150 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Plateau, The colonial downtown core with markets, museums and port views.

Morning: Gorée Island. Take the 20-minute ferry to the UNESCO-listed island and the haunting House of Slaves.

Afternoon: Explore Plateau, The colonial downtown core with markets, museums and port views.

Evening: African Renaissance Monument. Climb to the 52-metre bronze statue for the city's best panorama.

Eat: Thieboudienne, Senegal's national fish-and-rice dish

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: Almadies, The western tip: surf beaches, seafood restaurants and nightlife.

Morning: Surf at Ngor or Vivier. Ride the same waves featured in The Endless Summer.

Afternoon: Explore Almadies, The western tip: surf beaches, seafood restaurants and nightlife.

Evening: Marché Sandaga & Kermel. Dive into Dakar's great markets for fabrics, crafts and street food.

Eat: Yassa poulet, lemon-and-onion marinated chicken

Day 3, Local neighbourhoods

Base: Ngor & Yoff, Fishing-village beaches with pirogues, laid-back bars and island views.

Morning: Île de Ngor's beach cafes and snorkeling, 10 minutes by pirogue.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Ngor & Yoff, Fishing-village beaches with pirogues, laid-back bars and island views.

Evening: The Mosque of the Divinity on the Ouakam shoreline at low tide.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Fresh grouper and capitaine grilled at Almadies beach shacks

Day 4, Day trip or nature

Base: Medina, Dense, characterful old quarter with markets and street life.

Morning: Lac Rose's pink salt flats and salt harvesters, an hour north.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Medina, Dense, characterful old quarter with markets and street life.

Evening: Live mbalax at a Thiossane-style club after midnight on weekends.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Café Touba, the local spiced coffee, from a street vendor

Day 5, Slow finish

Base: Ouakam, Home of the African Renaissance Monument and Mosque of the Divinity.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Ouakam, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Ouakam, Home of the African Renaissance Monument and Mosque of the Divinity.

Evening: Dinner at Thieboudienne, Senegal's national fish-and-rice dish, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Ouakam.

Eat: Thieboudienne, Senegal's national fish-and-rice dish

Hidden gems

Île de Ngor's beach cafes and snorkeling, 10 minutes by pirogue.
The Mosque of the Divinity on the Ouakam shoreline at low tide.
Lac Rose's pink salt flats and salt harvesters, an hour north.
Live mbalax at a Thiossane-style club after midnight on weekends.

Getting around

Dakar's new Blaise Diagne airport is 45km east, linked by the TER train to the centre in about 45 minutes. In town, use registered taxis (agree the fare first) or ride-hailing apps like Yango and Heetch. The DDD ferry serves Gorée every hour or two, and sept-places shared taxis and the new BRT handle longer hops. Traffic is heavy at rush hours.

Safety

Dakar is one of West Africa's safer capitals, but petty theft happens around markets, the ferry terminal and crowded beaches, so keep valuables discreet. Avoid walking deserted beaches at night and use registered transport after dark. Ocean currents are strong at many beaches, so swim where locals do. Tap water is not recommended; stick to bottled.

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