Fes in 3 days

Morocco's spiritual heart: a labyrinthine medieval medina, ancient tanneries, and living craft traditions. Best time to visit: March-May and September-November. Average daily budget: $40 to $85 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Fes el-Bali, The ancient walled medina: the souks, madrasas, tanneries, and Al-Qarawiyyin.

Morning: Get lost in Fes el-Bali. The world's largest car-free medina, hire a guide for at least the first day.

Afternoon: Explore Fes el-Bali, The ancient walled medina: the souks, madrasas, tanneries, and Al-Qarawiyyin.

Evening: Sunset from Borj Sud. The whole medina spread out below as the call to prayer rises.

Eat: Pastilla (sweet-savoury pigeon or chicken pie)

Day 2, Go deeper

Base: Fes el-Jdid, The 'new' medieval quarter with the royal palace gates and old Jewish Mellah.

Morning: Chouara Tanneries. View the ancient dye pits from a leather shop's terrace, sprig of mint in hand.

Afternoon: Explore Fes el-Jdid, The 'new' medieval quarter with the royal palace gates and old Jewish Mellah.

Evening: Bou Inania & Al-Attarine madrasas. Exquisite 14th-century Islamic schools of carved cedar and zellij tile.

Eat: Tagine with preserved lemon and olives

Day 3, Hidden side

Base: Ville Nouvelle, The French-built modern town with cafés, wider streets, and hotels.

Morning: A pottery and zellij cooperative outside the walls to see tiles made.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Ville Nouvelle, The French-built modern town with cafés, wider streets, and hotels.

Evening: Mint tea on a rooftop café overlooking the Al-Qarawiyyin.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Harira soup and fresh khobz bread

Hidden gems

A pottery and zellij cooperative outside the walls to see tiles made.
Mint tea on a rooftop café overlooking the Al-Qarawiyyin.
The Nejjarine fountain and woodwork museum in a restored funduq.
An evening stroll in the calmer Ville Nouvelle for a change of pace.

Getting around

The medina is entirely car-free, you walk, and a local guide is genuinely worth it on your first day to avoid getting lost. Petit taxis link the medina, Ville Nouvelle and the hilltop viewpoints cheaply. Agree the fare or insist on the meter before you set off.

Safety

Fes is safe but full-on: expect persistent touts and faux guides offering to 'help' for commission, a firm 'no thank you' works. Dress modestly out of respect, especially women. Keep valuables secure in the crowded souks, and use official guides booked through your riad.

Fes in 5 days | Fes in 7 days | Full Fes guide