Salvador in 5 days

Brazil's Afro-Brazilian soul: candy-coloured colonial streets, drumming, and beaches on the Bay of All Saints. Best time to visit: September-March (and February for Carnival). Average daily budget: $40 to $80 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Pelourinho, The UNESCO historic centre: pastel baroque mansions, gilded churches, music and museums on cobbled hills.

Morning: Explore Pelourinho. Wander the colourful colonial streets, visit the dazzling gold-leaf São Francisco church, and catch a drumming rehearsal.

Afternoon: Explore Pelourinho, The UNESCO historic centre: pastel baroque mansions, gilded churches, music and museums on cobbled hills.

Evening: Sunset at Barra Lighthouse. Watch the sun drop into the bay from the Farol da Barra, then eat acarajé from a Baiana street vendor.

Eat: Acarajé, black-eyed-pea fritters stuffed with shrimp and vatapá

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: Barra, The beach and lighthouse district where the bay meets the ocean, with sunset crowds and seafront bars.

Morning: See an Olodum or capoeira performance. Experience Salvador's thunderous percussion and acrobatic martial-art-dance, often free in the squares.

Afternoon: Explore Barra, The beach and lighthouse district where the bay meets the ocean, with sunset crowds and seafront bars.

Evening: Catch a live drumming and capoeira night. Salvador is the soul of Brazilian rhythm. Watch Olodum or a capoeira roda, and if you can, time your visit for the city's legendary Carnival.

Eat: Moqueca, the coconut-and-dendê seafood stew

Day 3, Local neighbourhoods

Base: Rio Vermelho, The bohemian nightlife quarter: bars, live music, acarajé stands and the city's best evening buzz.

Morning: Ride the Lacerda Elevator & Mercado Modelo. Take the historic lift between the upper and lower towns, then browse crafts at the market.

Afternoon: Explore Rio Vermelho, The bohemian nightlife quarter: bars, live music, acarajé stands and the city's best evening buzz.

Evening: Explore the Pelourinho. Salvador's UNESCO old town, candy-coloured colonial buildings, baroque churches, and the heartbeat of Afro-Brazilian culture, music, capoeira and dance spilling into the streets.

Eat: Bobó de camarão, shrimp in a creamy cassava sauce

Day 4, Day trip or nature

Base: Comércio & Cidade Baixa, The lower town by the port, linked to the historic upper town by the iconic Lacerda Elevator.

Morning: The Igreja do Bonfim, with its famous wish-ribbons tied to the railings.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Comércio & Cidade Baixa, The lower town by the port, linked to the historic upper town by the iconic Lacerda Elevator.

Evening: A boat trip across the Bay of All Saints to Ilha de Itaparica.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Cocada sweets and fresh coconut water from beach vendors

Day 5, Slow finish

Base: Pelourinho, The UNESCO historic centre: pastel baroque mansions, gilded churches, music and museums on cobbled hills.

Morning: Dinner in Rio Vermelho where Salvador's chefs reinvent Bahian cuisine.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Pelourinho, The UNESCO historic centre: pastel baroque mansions, gilded churches, music and museums on cobbled hills.

Evening: A Tuesday-night 'Bênção' street party in Pelourinho, when the centre fills with music.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Acarajé, black-eyed-pea fritters stuffed with shrimp and vatapá

Hidden gems

The Igreja do Bonfim, with its famous wish-ribbons tied to the railings.
A boat trip across the Bay of All Saints to Ilha de Itaparica.
Dinner in Rio Vermelho where Salvador's chefs reinvent Bahian cuisine.
A Tuesday-night 'Bênção' street party in Pelourinho, when the centre fills with music.

Getting around

Salvador is hilly and spread out, so combine walking the compact Pelourinho with rides between districts. Use Uber or 99 rather than hailing taxis, especially at night, as they're cheaper and safer. The Lacerda Elevator and Plano Inclinado funiculars connect the upper and lower towns. The metro is limited but useful from the airport.

Safety

Salvador is vibrant but has higher street crime than Brazil's southern cities, so take care. Keep valuables out of sight, use Uber/99 at night, and stick to busy, well-lit areas in Pelourinho, Barra and Rio Vermelho after dark. Don't carry much cash or flashy items, and stay aware around the lower town and beaches.

Salvador in 3 days | Salvador in 7 days | Full Salvador guide