Zagreb in 5 days

Croatia's underrated capital: an Austro-Hungarian old town, quirky museums, café culture and great value. Best time to visit: May-June and September-October. Average daily budget: $70 to $120 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Gornji Grad (Upper Town), The medieval hilltop core with St Mark's Church, the cathedral, museums and cobbled lanes.

Morning: Upper Town & St Mark's Church. Ride the funicular up to the medieval quarter and see the iconic tiled-roof church.

Afternoon: Explore Gornji Grad (Upper Town), The medieval hilltop core with St Mark's Church, the cathedral, museums and cobbled lanes.

Evening: Dolac Market. Browse the famous red-umbrella farmers' market just above the main square.

Eat: Štrukli, baked or boiled dough pastry filled with cottage cheese

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: Donji Grad (Lower Town), The grand 19th-century grid of parks, galleries, theatres and the 'Green Horseshoe' of squares.

Morning: Museum of Broken Relationships. Visit the city's award-winning, oddly moving museum of donated mementos from past loves.

Afternoon: Explore Donji Grad (Lower Town), The grand 19th-century grid of parks, galleries, theatres and the 'Green Horseshoe' of squares.

Evening: Café culture on Tkalčićeva. Join the locals for the weekend špica coffee ritual on the buzzing café street.

Eat: Zagrebački odrezak, a veal schnitzel stuffed with ham and cheese

Day 3, Local neighbourhoods

Base: Tkalčićeva, The lively pedestrian street of cafés, bars and restaurants buzzing day and night.

Morning: The stone Lotrščak Tower cannon fired daily at noon, with great rooftop views.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Tkalčićeva, The lively pedestrian street of cafés, bars and restaurants buzzing day and night.

Evening: The peaceful Mirogoj Cemetery, with its grand ivy-covered arcades.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Sarma, cabbage rolls, a hearty winter favourite

Day 4, Day trip or nature

Base: Britanac & around, A leafy, local area known for its Sunday antiques market and neighbourhood cafés.

Morning: The quirky, atmospheric tunnels of Grič beneath the upper town.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Britanac & around, A leafy, local area known for its Sunday antiques market and neighbourhood cafés.

Evening: Sunday antiques hunting at the Britanac (British Square) flea market.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Kremšnita custard slices from nearby Samobor

Day 5, Slow finish

Base: Gornji Grad (Upper Town), The medieval hilltop core with St Mark's Church, the cathedral, museums and cobbled lanes.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Gornji Grad (Upper Town), then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Gornji Grad (Upper Town), The medieval hilltop core with St Mark's Church, the cathedral, museums and cobbled lanes.

Evening: Dinner at Štrukli, baked or boiled dough pastry filled with cottage cheese, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Gornji Grad (Upper Town).

Eat: Štrukli, baked or boiled dough pastry filled with cottage cheese

Hidden gems

The stone Lotrščak Tower cannon fired daily at noon, with great rooftop views.
The peaceful Mirogoj Cemetery, with its grand ivy-covered arcades.
The quirky, atmospheric tunnels of Grič beneath the upper town.
Sunday antiques hunting at the Britanac (British Square) flea market.

Getting around

Zagreb has an extensive tram network (ZET) that covers the city cheaply, plus buses and a tiny historic funicular linking the upper and lower towns. The centre is compact and very walkable, and the airport links to the main bus station by shuttle in about 30 minutes. Tickets are inexpensive and a day pass is good value.

Safety

Zagreb is a very safe, relaxed city and excellent for solo travellers including women, day and night. Violent crime is rare and the centre feels calm and welcoming. The main caution is minor pickpocketing in crowded trams and tourist spots, so use normal city sense and you'll have no trouble.

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