Cartagena, Colombia travel guide

Walled colonial old town, Caribbean light, and South America's most cinematic city break.

Best time to visit: December-April (dry season)
Average daily budget: $70 to $130 USD
Ideal trip length: 3 to 4 days

Cartagena is what happens when 16th-century Spanish walls meet Caribbean colour. Bougainvillea explodes off pastel facades, the old town is fully walled and walkable, and the food has more African influence than people expect. Joy Plus skips the over-priced Plaza Santo Domingo restaurants, gets you into Getsemaní before the cruise crowd, and picks the right Rosario Islands operator (most are awful).

Cartagena itinerary

Day 1, Get oriented

Morning: Castillo San Felipe. The huge fortress. Go at 8am opening, before the heat.

Afternoon: Explore Centro Histórico, Inside the walls. Plaza Santo Domingo, balconies, the postcard.

Evening: Sunset walk on the walls. Start at Café del Mar, walk anticlockwise. Free, golden, romantic.

Day 2, Go deeper

Morning: Rosario Islands day trip. Use a small private boat (Bona Vida, Three Sixty), not the big tourist catamarans.

Afternoon: Explore Getsemaní, The arty, scrappy neighbourhood just outside the walls. Best food, best bars.

Evening: Getsemaní street art tour. Calle de la Sierpe and around. Murals, lanterns, salsa spilling out of bars.

Day 3, Hidden side

Morning: La Cevichería - Bourdain put it on the map but the ceviche is still excellent.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore San Diego, Quieter half of the walled city, boutique hotels, less buzz.

Evening: Sunset stroll on the Old City walls. Walk the 16th-century stone ramparts ringing the colourful walled city as the sun drops into the Caribbean. Stop at Café del Mar on the wall for a drink and the view.

Best neighbourhoods

Centro Histórico: Inside the walls. Plaza Santo Domingo, balconies, the postcard.
Getsemaní: The arty, scrappy neighbourhood just outside the walls. Best food, best bars.
San Diego: Quieter half of the walled city, boutique hotels, less buzz.
Bocagrande: Miami-style high-rise beach strip. Skip unless you want resort vibes.
La Boquilla: Local fishing village 20 minutes north. Real beach, real ceviche.

Must-do experiences

Sunset walk on the walls: Start at Café del Mar, walk anticlockwise. Free, golden, romantic.
Castillo San Felipe: The huge fortress. Go at 8am opening, before the heat.
Getsemaní street art tour: Calle de la Sierpe and around. Murals, lanterns, salsa spilling out of bars.
Rosario Islands day trip: Use a small private boat (Bona Vida, Three Sixty), not the big tourist catamarans.
Sunset stroll on the Old City walls: Walk the 16th-century stone ramparts ringing the colourful walled city as the sun drops into the Caribbean. Stop at Café del Mar on the wall for a drink and the view.
Day trip to the Rosario Islands: Turquoise water and white sand an hour's boat ride away. Book a reputable tour or a day at an island beach club to escape the city heat, snorkel, swim and lunch on the sand.

Hidden gems

La Cevichería - Bourdain put it on the map but the ceviche is still excellent.
Café Stepping Stone - social-enterprise café in Getsemaní, good flat whites.
Plaza de la Trinidad after 8pm, salsa, locals, kids playing football.
Convento de la Popa for the only properly elevated city view.

Daily budget

$70 to $130 USD per day.

What to eat

Ceviche at La Cevichería or Mar y Zielo
Arepa de huevo from a street cart
Posta cartagenera at La Mulata
Fresh juices from any fruit cart - lulo, maracuyá, guanábana

Getting around

The walled old town and Getsemaní are 100% walkable. Use Cabify or InDriver for everything else - taxis don't run meters and will overcharge. The airport is 15 minutes by Uber.

Safety

Tourist areas are well-policed and generally safe day and night. Standard Latin America awareness: don't flash phones, use a hotel safe, agree fares before getting in unmetered taxis. Solo female travellers report Cartagena as easier than Bogotá or Medellín.

Frequently asked questions

How many days do you need in Cartagena?

Three full days for the city plus one beach or islands day. Four if you want to add a day trip to Playa Blanca or the Mud Volcano.

Is Cartagena safe for solo travellers?

Yes, the walled city and Getsemaní are very safe. Avoid the southern outskirts at night and use ride apps instead of street taxis.

Do I need Spanish?

English is widely spoken inside the walled Centro, Getsemaní and the main hotels and tour operators. Outside those areas, in markets, local buses and neighbourhood restaurants, basic Spanish helps a lot, so a translation app is worth downloading offline.

Are the Rosario Islands worth the day trip?

Yes, but skip the cattle-boat group tours from the main pier. Book a small private lancha (5-8 people) from Bocagrande or stay overnight at Isla Grande or Isla Múcura. The water is far better than Playa Blanca, which has been ruined by day-trippers and hawkers.

Getsemaní or the walled city for accommodation?

Getsemaní for atmosphere, street art, salsa bars and better value (the formerly rough barrio is now the most interesting neighbourhood in the city). The walled city for postcard balconies and a quieter night. Both are a 10-minute walk apart, you'll see both regardless.

What's the best street food in Cartagena?

Arepa de huevo (fried corn pocket with egg), carimañolas (yuca fritters), patacones with hogao, fresh fruit cups from the palenqueras in colourful dresses (tip them or ask before photos), and a cold Águila beer. Plaza de la Trinidad in Getsemaní after 6pm is the hub.

Is Cartagena safe for tourists?

The walled city and Getsemaní are safe and walkable, day and night, with normal caution. Expect persistent street vendors, agree taxi fares upfront, use ATMs inside, and don't flash valuables.

When is the best time to visit Cartagena?

December to April is the dry season with the most reliable sun. It's hot and humid year-round, so pack light, hydrate, and plan beach or pool time in the brutal midday heat.

Where should I stay in Cartagena?

Inside the walled Old City for romance, history and convenience (pricier), or Getsemaní just outside for a hipper, more local and affordable vibe with great street art and nightlife.

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