Cartagena in 3 days

Walled colonial old town, Caribbean light, and South America's most cinematic city break. Best time to visit: December-April (dry season). Average daily budget: $70 to $130 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Centro Histórico, Inside the walls. Plaza Santo Domingo, balconies, the postcard.

Morning: Castillo San Felipe. The huge fortress. Go at 8am opening, before the heat.

Afternoon: Explore Centro Histórico, Inside the walls. Plaza Santo Domingo, balconies, the postcard.

Evening: Sunset walk on the walls. Start at Café del Mar, walk anticlockwise. Free, golden, romantic.

Eat: Ceviche at La Cevichería or Mar y Zielo

Day 2, Go deeper

Base: Getsemaní, The arty, scrappy neighbourhood just outside the walls. Best food, best bars.

Morning: Rosario Islands day trip. Use a small private boat (Bona Vida, Three Sixty), not the big tourist catamarans.

Afternoon: Explore Getsemaní, The arty, scrappy neighbourhood just outside the walls. Best food, best bars.

Evening: Getsemaní street art tour. Calle de la Sierpe and around. Murals, lanterns, salsa spilling out of bars.

Eat: Arepa de huevo from a street cart

Day 3, Hidden side

Base: San Diego, Quieter half of the walled city, boutique hotels, less buzz.

Morning: La Cevichería - Bourdain put it on the map but the ceviche is still excellent.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore San Diego, Quieter half of the walled city, boutique hotels, less buzz.

Evening: Sunset stroll on the Old City walls. Walk the 16th-century stone ramparts ringing the colourful walled city as the sun drops into the Caribbean. Stop at Café del Mar on the wall for a drink and the view.

Eat: Posta cartagenera at La Mulata

Hidden gems

La Cevichería - Bourdain put it on the map but the ceviche is still excellent.
Café Stepping Stone - social-enterprise café in Getsemaní, good flat whites.
Plaza de la Trinidad after 8pm, salsa, locals, kids playing football.
Convento de la Popa for the only properly elevated city view.

Getting around

The walled old town and Getsemaní are 100% walkable. Use Cabify or InDriver for everything else - taxis don't run meters and will overcharge. The airport is 15 minutes by Uber.

Safety

Tourist areas are well-policed and generally safe day and night. Standard Latin America awareness: don't flash phones, use a hotel safe, agree fares before getting in unmetered taxis. Solo female travellers report Cartagena as easier than Bogotá or Medellín.

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