Antigua in 5 days

365 beaches, Nelson's Georgian dockyard, sailing culture, and some of the clearest water in the Caribbean. Best time to visit: December-April (dry season). Average daily budget: $120 to $230 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: St. John's, The colourful capital: markets, the cathedral, and the cruise-pier shops.

Morning: Nelson's Dockyard. Walk the restored Georgian naval base, still a working yacht marina.

Afternoon: Explore St. John's, The colourful capital: markets, the cathedral, and the cruise-pier shops.

Evening: Sunday sunset at Shirley Heights. Steel band, barbecue and a panoramic view over English Harbour.

Eat: Fungee and pepperpot, the national dish

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: English Harbour, Historic Nelson's Dockyard, yacht bars, and the island's best restaurants.

Morning: Beach-hop the west coast. Ffryes, Darkwood and Turner's beaches strung along one gorgeous stretch.

Afternoon: Explore English Harbour, Historic Nelson's Dockyard, yacht bars, and the island's best restaurants.

Evening: Day trip to Barbuda. A ferry ride to pink-sand beaches and a huge frigatebird colony.

Eat: Fresh grilled lobster at a beach shack

Day 3, Local neighbourhoods

Base: Jolly Harbour, West-coast marina village with calm beaches and good-value apartments.

Morning: Half Moon Bay on the wild east coast for a near-empty crescent of sand.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Jolly Harbour, West-coast marina village with calm beaches and good-value apartments.

Evening: Stingray City for a shallow-water swim with habituated southern stingrays.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Saltfish with antiguan ducana for breakfast

Day 4, Day trip or nature

Base: Dickenson Bay, The main northwest resort beach: watersports, beach bars, and sunsets.

Morning: Devil's Bridge, a natural limestone arch carved by Atlantic swells.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Dickenson Bay, The main northwest resort beach: watersports, beach bars, and sunsets.

Evening: Roti and pepperpot from a St. John's market stall instead of a resort lunch.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Rum punch made with local Cavalier or English Harbour rum

Day 5, Slow finish

Base: Falmouth Harbour, The superyacht anchorage next to English Harbour, lively in sailing season.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Falmouth Harbour, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Falmouth Harbour, The superyacht anchorage next to English Harbour, lively in sailing season.

Evening: Dinner at Fungee and pepperpot, the national dish, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Falmouth Harbour.

Eat: Fungee and pepperpot, the national dish

Hidden gems

Half Moon Bay on the wild east coast for a near-empty crescent of sand.
Stingray City for a shallow-water swim with habituated southern stingrays.
Devil's Bridge, a natural limestone arch carved by Atlantic swells.
Roti and pepperpot from a St. John's market stall instead of a resort lunch.

Getting around

V. C. Bird International is close to St. John's and the northern resorts, with most transfers under 30 minutes. Public minibuses are very cheap and connect St. John's with the west and south, but they stop by early evening and don't serve the far east well. Taxis are unmetered with government-set rates, so confirm the fare beforehand. A rental car is the best way to beach-hop; driving is on the left and a local permit is issued at pickup.

Safety

Antigua is one of the calmer Caribbean islands and violent crime against visitors is rare, but opportunistic theft from cars, beaches and unlocked rooms happens. Keep valuables out of sight and use the room safe. Some beaches have sudden drop-offs and strong currents on the Atlantic side, so favour the sheltered west coast for swimming. Roads are narrow with unmarked speed bumps, so drive slowly, especially after dark.

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