Athens in 3 days

Ancient ruins, gritty neighbourhoods reborn, and food that punches harder than the postcards suggest. Best time to visit: April-May and late September-October. Average daily budget: $70 to $120 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Plaka, The old town under the Acropolis. Touristy, beautiful, walk it early.

Morning: Acropolis at opening (8am). Buy the multi-site combo ticket. Enter from the south slope, skip the main gate.

Afternoon: Explore Plaka, The old town under the Acropolis. Touristy, beautiful, walk it early.

Evening: Acropolis Museum. The Bernard Tschumi building. Spend 90 minutes, eat at the rooftop café.

Eat: Souvlaki at Kostas (Agia Irini square)

Day 2, Go deeper

Base: Koukaki, Just south of the Acropolis, leafy, where the smart hotels are.

Morning: Acropolis at opening. Be at the gate when it opens to climb to the Parthenon before the heat and the cruise crowds. Buy a combo ticket online that covers the Ancient Agora and other sites too.

Afternoon: Explore Koukaki, Just south of the Acropolis, leafy, where the smart hotels are.

Evening: Sunset on Lycabettus. Funicular up, walk down. The whole city plus the Acropolis at gold hour.

Eat: Mezze at Karamanlidika

Day 3, Hidden side

Base: Exarchia, Anarchist-leaning, street art, the city's most interesting bars.

Morning: Anafiotika - the Cycladic-style village hidden on the north slope of the Acropolis.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Exarchia, Anarchist-leaning, street art, the city's most interesting bars.

Evening: Day trip to Cape Sounion. Temple of Poseidon at sunset. Bus from Mavromateon, 90 minutes each way.

Eat: Loukoumades at Lukumades shop in Aiolou

Hidden gems

Anafiotika - the Cycladic-style village hidden on the north slope of the Acropolis.
Strofi taverna for the rare 'good food + Acropolis view' combo.
The National Archaeological Museum - emptier than the Acropolis Museum, twice as deep.
Stoa of Attalos in the Agora, fully reconstructed and barely visited.

Getting around

Metro is fast, clean and reaches the airport. A 90-minute ticket is 1.20 EUR. Walking is the default in the centre. Taxis (use FreeNow) are cheap for late nights.

Safety

Generally safe. Pickpockets work line 1 and the Monastiraki/Omonia stretch. Avoid Omonia square late at night. Strikes happen - check before flying.

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