Hamburg in 5 days

Germany's maritime metropolis: red-brick warehouses, a buzzing harbour, canals and legendary nightlife. Best time to visit: May-September. Average daily budget: $100 to $160 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Speicherstadt & HafenCity, UNESCO-listed red-brick warehouses laced with canals, plus the modern HafenCity and the Elbphilharmonie.

Morning: Elbphilharmonie. Ride to the free public Plaza for sweeping harbour views, or catch a concert in the dramatic glass hall.

Afternoon: Explore Speicherstadt & HafenCity, UNESCO-listed red-brick warehouses laced with canals, plus the modern HafenCity and the Elbphilharmonie.

Evening: Reeperbahn night out. Experience St Pauli's famous nightlife, live-music clubs and bars where the Beatles cut their teeth.

Eat: Fischbrötchen, a fresh fish sandwich from a harbour stall

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: St Pauli & Reeperbahn, The legendary nightlife district, gritty, lively and home to live music, bars and the Sunday fish market.

Morning: Speicherstadt warehouse district. Wander the canal-laced red-brick warehouses, the world's largest such complex.

Afternoon: Explore St Pauli & Reeperbahn, The legendary nightlife district, gritty, lively and home to live music, bars and the Sunday fish market.

Evening: Harbour boat tour. Cruise the working port past giant container ships and the historic landing bridges.

Eat: Labskaus, the hearty sailors' dish of corned beef, beetroot and fried egg

Day 3, Local neighbourhoods

Base: Sternschanze (Schanze), Bohemian and trendy, with indie shops, street art, cafés and a young creative crowd.

Morning: The early-morning Sunday Fischmarkt, with shouting vendors and a live band in an old auction hall.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Sternschanze (Schanze), Bohemian and trendy, with indie shops, street art, cafés and a young creative crowd.

Evening: The Old Elbe Tunnel, a 1911 tiled tunnel under the river with great skyline views from the south bank.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Franzbrötchen, a cinnamon pastry born in Hamburg

Day 4, Day trip or nature

Base: Altstadt & around the Alster, The historic centre and the elegant lakes ringed by promenades, sailing boats and grand townhouses.

Morning: Planten un Blomen park, with free summer water-light shows after dark.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Altstadt & around the Alster, The historic centre and the elegant lakes ringed by promenades, sailing boats and grand townhouses.

Evening: Miniatur Wunderland, the astonishing and genuinely fun world's largest model railway.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Currywurst and a cold north German pilsner

Day 5, Slow finish

Base: Speicherstadt & HafenCity, UNESCO-listed red-brick warehouses laced with canals, plus the modern HafenCity and the Elbphilharmonie.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Speicherstadt & HafenCity, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Speicherstadt & HafenCity, UNESCO-listed red-brick warehouses laced with canals, plus the modern HafenCity and the Elbphilharmonie.

Evening: Dinner at Fischbrötchen, a fresh fish sandwich from a harbour stall, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Speicherstadt & HafenCity.

Eat: Fischbrötchen, a fresh fish sandwich from a harbour stall

Hidden gems

The early-morning Sunday Fischmarkt, with shouting vendors and a live band in an old auction hall.
The Old Elbe Tunnel, a 1911 tiled tunnel under the river with great skyline views from the south bank.
Planten un Blomen park, with free summer water-light shows after dark.
Miniatur Wunderland, the astonishing and genuinely fun world's largest model railway.

Getting around

Hamburg has an excellent integrated U-Bahn, S-Bahn, bus and ferry network on one HVV ticket, and the public harbour ferries (line 62) double as a cheap sightseeing cruise. The centre, Speicherstadt and Alster are walkable, and the airport links to the centre by S-Bahn in about 25 minutes. A day ticket is the easiest way to get around.

Safety

Hamburg is a safe, well-run city and comfortable for solo travellers including women. The main caution is the Reeperbahn at night, which is lively and mostly fun but can get rowdy, with pickpockets and aggressive touts; keep valuables secure and your wits about you. Elsewhere, normal big-city sense is enough, and public transport is safe and reliable.

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