Hanoi in 7 days

1,000-year-old streets, lake-side egg coffee, and the most atmospheric capital in Southeast Asia. Best time to visit: October-April. Average daily budget: $30 to $70 USD.

Day 1, Land & wander

Base: Old Quarter, 1,000-year-old maze of 36 streets. Markets, street food, your hotel base.

Morning: Old Quarter food crawl. Pho 10 (breakfast), bun cha at Bun Cha Huong Lien (Obama ate here), egg coffee at Cafe Giang.

Afternoon: Explore Old Quarter, 1,000-year-old maze of 36 streets. Markets, street food, your hotel base.

Evening: Halong Bay overnight cruise. Book a small boat (max 16 cabins). Avoid day trips - they're rushed and bad value.

Eat: Pho bo at Pho 10 Ly Quoc Su

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: French Quarter, Colonial boulevards, the Opera House, upscale cafés and the Metropole hotel.

Morning: Hoan Kiem Lake at dawn. Locals doing tai chi, the Turtle Tower in mist, $1 lake-side coffee.

Afternoon: Explore French Quarter, Colonial boulevards, the Opera House, upscale cafés and the Metropole hotel.

Evening: Overnight cruise in Ha Long Bay. The limestone-karst seascape is a few hours away and best done as an overnight boat trip. Kayak through caves, sleep on the water, and pick a smaller operator to avoid the floating traffic jam.

Eat: Bun cha at Bun Cha Dac Kim

Day 3, Food & markets

Base: Hoan Kiem Lake, The city's living room. Tai chi at dawn, weekend night markets, lake-side egg coffee.

Morning: Train Street (carefully). Train passes inches from cafés twice a day. Sit, drink coffee, watch the chaos.

Afternoon: Explore Hoan Kiem Lake, The city's living room. Tai chi at dawn, weekend night markets, lake-side egg coffee.

Evening: Egg coffee in the Old Quarter. Hanoi's signature drink, whipped egg yolk over strong coffee, like drinking tiramisu. Find a tucked-away café down an alley, sit on a tiny stool, and watch the motorbike chaos.

Eat: Banh mi at Banh Mi 25

Day 4, Local neighbourhoods

Base: West Lake (Tay Ho), Where expats and Vietnamese middle class live. Lake-side bars, fusion restaurants.

Morning: Ngo Hang Cot - the bamboo street, almost no tourists.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore West Lake (Tay Ho), Where expats and Vietnamese middle class live. Lake-side bars, fusion restaurants.

Evening: Chùa Trấn Quốc - 1,500-year-old pagoda on West Lake.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Egg coffee at Cafe Giang

Day 5, Day trip

Base: Ba Dinh, Government quarter. Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the Temple of Literature, embassies.

Morning: Ninh Binh day trip - 'Halong Bay on land' with karst peaks and rice paddies.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Ba Dinh, Government quarter. Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the Temple of Literature, embassies.

Evening: Ca phe trung (egg coffee) at Cafe Giang - invented here in 1946.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Pho bo at Pho 10 Ly Quoc Su

Day 6, Hidden gems

Base: Old Quarter, 1,000-year-old maze of 36 streets. Markets, street food, your hotel base.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Old Quarter, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Old Quarter, 1,000-year-old maze of 36 streets. Markets, street food, your hotel base.

Evening: Dinner at Bun cha at Bun Cha Dac Kim, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Old Quarter.

Eat: Bun cha at Bun Cha Dac Kim

Day 7, Slow finish

Base: French Quarter, Colonial boulevards, the Opera House, upscale cafés and the Metropole hotel.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in French Quarter, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore French Quarter, Colonial boulevards, the Opera House, upscale cafés and the Metropole hotel.

Evening: Dinner at Banh mi at Banh Mi 25, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in French Quarter.

Eat: Banh mi at Banh Mi 25

Hidden gems

Ngo Hang Cot - the bamboo street, almost no tourists.
Chùa Trấn Quốc - 1,500-year-old pagoda on West Lake.
Ninh Binh day trip - 'Halong Bay on land' with karst peaks and rice paddies.
Ca phe trung (egg coffee) at Cafe Giang - invented here in 1946.

Getting around

Walk the Old Quarter - it's the only way to absorb it. Use Grab (motorbike or car) for longer hops, both are cheap. Crossing streets is an art: walk slowly, consistently, and the bikes will flow around you.

Safety

Very safe for tourists. Petty scams (taxi meters, bag snatching from motorbikes) are the main risk. Solo travellers, including women, are common. Hold your phone tightly when walking near the road.

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