Istanbul in 3 days

Where Europe meets Asia, domes, bazaars, and the Bosphorus running through the middle. Best time to visit: April-June and September-October. Average daily budget: $50 to $100 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Sultanahmet, Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapı, the imperial centre.

Morning: Hagia Sophia + Blue Mosque at opening. Both free, both packed by 10am. Be there at 9.

Afternoon: Explore Sultanahmet, Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapı, the imperial centre.

Evening: Bosphorus ferry at sunset. Public ferry to Üsküdar costs €1 and beats any tour.

Eat: Simit and çay at any street cart

Day 2, Go deeper

Base: Beyoğlu & Galata, Galata Tower, İstiklal street, the late-night side.

Morning: Grand Bazaar with a guide. Without one you'll overpay 5x. With one it's the best market in the world.

Afternoon: Explore Beyoğlu & Galata, Galata Tower, İstiklal street, the late-night side.

Evening: Sunrise over the rooftops of Sultanahmet. The Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia silhouetted against the dawn call to prayer is unforgettable. Find a rooftop terrace café, order Turkish tea, and watch the old city wake up.

Eat: Köfte at Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi

Day 3, Hidden side

Base: Karaköy, Once shipping district, now coffee, brunch, design shops.

Morning: Hamam at Kılıç Ali Paşa or Çemberlitaş. Centuries-old, traditional, deeply restorative.

Afternoon: Explore Karaköy, Once shipping district, now coffee, brunch, design shops.

Evening: Bosphorus ferry between two continents. Hop a public ferry from Eminönü up the strait, palaces, fortresses and waterfront mansions sliding past as you cross from Europe to Asia. The cheapest, best cruise in the city.

Eat: Balık ekmek (fish sandwich) at Eminönü docks

Hidden gems

Chora Church (Kariye), the best Byzantine mosaics in the world, hardly any tourists.
Pierre Loti Hill ferry + cable car, sunset over the Golden Horn.
Çukurcuma antique district, the streets of Pamuk's Museum of Innocence.
Kadıköy's Tuesday street market, produce, spices, no tour groups.

Getting around

Get an Istanbulkart on arrival. Tram, metro, ferry and bus all use it. The Bosphorus ferry is essential, not optional. Avoid taxis at rush hour, traffic is brutal.

Safety

Generally safe. Touts in Sultanahmet are aggressive but harmless. Avoid taking photos of police or military. Solo female travellers report Istanbul as comfortable, especially in Beyoğlu and Kadıköy. Conservative dress at mosques.

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