Kolkata in 3 days

India's literary, political and culinary capital: crumbling mansions, yellow taxis and the country's best street food. Best time to visit: November-February. Average daily budget: $25 to $70 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: BBD Bagh & Esplanade, The colonial administrative core: Writers' Building, Dalhousie Square and grand banks.

Morning: Howrah Bridge and the Mullick Ghat flower market. Dawn chaos of marigolds, porters and river light under the cantilever span.

Afternoon: Explore BBD Bagh & Esplanade, The colonial administrative core: Writers' Building, Dalhousie Square and grand banks.

Evening: Victoria Memorial and the Maidan. White marble imperial pile set in gardens, best at sunset with a walk across the Maidan.

Eat: Kathi rolls from Park Street's Nizam's or Kusum

Day 2, Go deeper

Base: North Kolkata (Shobhabazar, Kumartuli), Old family mansions, idol-makers' workshops and the city's oldest lanes.

Morning: Kumartuli idol-makers' workshops. Artisans building clay Durga idols in narrow riverside lanes, year-round but frantic before Puja.

Afternoon: Explore North Kolkata (Shobhabazar, Kumartuli), Old family mansions, idol-makers' workshops and the city's oldest lanes.

Evening: Coffee House on College Street. Cheap coffee, loud arguments and stacks of secondhand books along Boi Para.

Eat: Machher jhol and shorshe ilish at a Bengali thali house

Day 3, Hidden side

Base: Park Street & Camac Street, Restaurants, old-school bars, bookshops and the city's after-dark centre.

Morning: Marble Palace, a private mansion crammed with European art and live peacocks.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Park Street & Camac Street, Restaurants, old-school bars, bookshops and the city's after-dark centre.

Evening: The Armenian Church of Nazareth, the city's oldest, tucked behind Barabazar.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Puchka (Kolkata's sharper, tangier pani puri) from a street cart

Hidden gems

Marble Palace, a private mansion crammed with European art and live peacocks.
The Armenian Church of Nazareth, the city's oldest, tucked behind Barabazar.
South Park Street Cemetery's mossy Georgian tombs under giant trees.
A tram ride on Asia's oldest operating electric tram network, slow and near-empty.

Getting around

Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose International Airport is 17 km north-east, 45 to 75 minutes by prepaid taxi or app cab. The metro's north-south line is fast and cheap for the main spine; yellow Ambassador taxis and app cabs cover the rest. Trams and ferries across the Hooghly are slow but worth doing once. Traffic is heavy from 9am and again after 5pm.

Safety

Kolkata is among India's safest big cities and violent crime against visitors is rare, though pickpocketing happens in Barabazar and on crowded metros. Solo women report fewer problems here than in Delhi, but modest dress and app cabs after dark remain sensible. Air quality dips badly in winter, drink only sealed water, and expect heavy crowds and closures during Durga Puja in September or October.

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