Kuching in 3 days

Borneo's riverside cat city: orangutans, longhouses and laksa for breakfast. Best time to visit: April to September. Average daily budget: $35 to $70.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Waterfront and Main Bazaar, The riverside promenade with the golden Dewan Undangan Negeri building across the water and shophouse rows behind.

Morning: Eat Sarawak laksa for breakfast. The local obsession: vermicelli in a spiced prawn and coconut broth, best at a packed kopitiam before 10am.

Afternoon: Explore Waterfront and Main Bazaar, The riverside promenade with the golden Dewan Undangan Negeri building across the water and shophouse rows behind.

Evening: Walk the waterfront at sunset. The esplanade comes alive with food carts, river taxis and views of the illuminated state assembly building.

Eat: Sarawak laksa at Choon Hui or any packed kopitiam, mornings only

Day 2, Go deeper

Base: Carpenter Street and Old Town, The historic core of temples, coffee shops, tin smiths and the best laksa stalls.

Morning: See orangutans at Semenggoh. Semi wild orangutans swing in for morning and afternoon feedings at the rehabilitation centre, 40 minutes from town.

Afternoon: Explore Carpenter Street and Old Town, The historic core of temples, coffee shops, tin smiths and the best laksa stalls.

Evening: Visit a longhouse. Overnight or day trip to an Iban longhouse on the Skrang or Lemanak rivers for a window into Borneo's indigenous culture.

Eat: Kolo mee, springy dry tossed noodles with char siu, the city's other religion

Day 3, Hidden side

Base: Padungan, The 1920s shophouse strip east of the center, full of cafes, cat statues and local eateries.

Morning: Hike Bako National Park. Proboscis monkeys, bearded pigs and pitcher plants on coastal jungle trails; go at the right tide.

Afternoon: Explore Padungan, The 1920s shophouse strip east of the center, full of cafes, cat statues and local eateries.

Evening: Explore the Sarawak Museum campus. The excellent new Borneo Cultures Museum, second largest in Southeast Asia, covering the state's peoples and history.

Eat: Midin, the crunchy jungle fern stir fried with garlic or belacan

Hidden gems

Kubah National Park's waterfall trails and frog pond at dusk
Fairy Cave and Wind Cave near Bau, 45 minutes out of town
The Sunday morning Satok weekend market across the river
Annah Rais Bidayuh longhouse, the easiest authentic longhouse visit

Getting around

Kuching airport has direct flights from Kuala Lumpur (1 hour 45 minutes), Singapore and Kota Kinabalu. The center is walkable and Grab is cheap and everywhere. For Bako, take bus 1 to Bako village then a boat; Semenggoh is reached by tour, Grab or bus 6. Longhouse trips need a tour or rental car.

Safety

Kuching is one of Southeast Asia's safest and most relaxed cities. Main considerations: heavy rain any time of year (pack a light rain jacket), sun and dehydration on jungle trails, and leeches at Bako after rain. Tap water is best avoided; bottled water is everywhere and cheap.

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