Ayutthaya, Thailand travel guide

A ruined royal capital of brick prangs, headless Buddhas and the tree-root Buddha head.

Best time to visit: November-February
Average daily budget: $25 to $70 USD
Ideal trip length: 1 to 2 days

For four centuries Ayutthaya was one of the largest cities on earth, a river-ringed capital of gilded temples that Burmese armies burned in 1767. What survives is a UNESCO park of brick prangs, toppled Buddhas and the famous stone head cradled by banyan roots at Wat Mahathat, all spread across an island you can cycle in an afternoon. It is 80km from Bangkok, which makes it the country's best day trip. Joy Plus times it around the heat and the light.

Ayutthaya itinerary

Day 1, Get oriented

Morning: Wat Mahathat. The sandstone Buddha head entwined in banyan roots, plus rows of ruined chedis.

Afternoon: Explore Historical Park (island core), Wat Mahathat, Wat Ratchaburana and Wat Phra Si Sanphet within walking distance.

Evening: Wat Chaiwatthanaram. Khmer-style riverside prangs, unbeatable at sunset.

Day 2, Go deeper

Morning: Wat Phra Si Sanphet. Three restored royal chedis, the emblem of the old palace complex.

Afternoon: Explore Naresuan Soi 2, The guesthouse strip with bike rental, bars and travellers' cafes.

Evening: Sunset river cruise. A long-tail loop past the temples that face the water.

Day 3, Hidden side

Morning: Wat Lokayasutharam's 42m reclining Buddha, open-air and often empty.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Riverside west, Wat Chaiwatthanaram and Wat Phutthaisawan across the water, best at sunset.

Evening: Wat Phu Khao Thong, a white chedi you can climb for a rice-field panorama.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Best neighbourhoods

Historical Park (island core): Wat Mahathat, Wat Ratchaburana and Wat Phra Si Sanphet within walking distance.
Naresuan Soi 2: The guesthouse strip with bike rental, bars and travellers' cafes.
Riverside west: Wat Chaiwatthanaram and Wat Phutthaisawan across the water, best at sunset.
Hua Ro market area: Local morning market and boat noodles on the north-east of the island.
Bang Pa-In: The royal summer palace 20km south, an easy add-on by car or train.

Must-do experiences

Wat Mahathat: The sandstone Buddha head entwined in banyan roots, plus rows of ruined chedis.
Wat Chaiwatthanaram: Khmer-style riverside prangs, unbeatable at sunset.
Wat Phra Si Sanphet: Three restored royal chedis, the emblem of the old palace complex.
Sunset river cruise: A long-tail loop past the temples that face the water.

Hidden gems

Wat Lokayasutharam's 42m reclining Buddha, open-air and often empty.
Wat Phu Khao Thong, a white chedi you can climb for a rice-field panorama.
The Portuguese and Japanese settlement sites south of the island.
Ayothaya floating market for a low-key evening meal.

Daily budget

$25 to $70 USD per day.

What to eat

Kuay teow ruea, the intense Ayutthaya boat noodles
Roti sai mai, candy-floss wrapped in thin pancakes, the local sweet
Giant river prawns grilled over charcoal
Night-market grilled pork skewers and sticky rice

Getting around

Trains from Bangkok's Krung Thep Aphiwat station take 1 to 2 hours and cost a couple of dollars; minivans from Mo Chit are similar. On the island, rent a bicycle for about $2 a day or a scooter for $6, or hire a tuk-tuk by the hour for roughly $8 to $10 to cover the spread-out western temples. Boat tours leave from the guesthouse area in the late afternoon.

Safety

Heat is the main risk: temperatures regularly top 35C with no shade among the ruins, so carry water and go early or late. Cycling on the main roads means sharing with fast traffic, so stick to the quieter park lanes. Dress respectfully at active temples with shoulders and knees covered, and never climb on Buddha images or pose with your head above one, which is a genuine offence.

Frequently asked questions

Is Ayutthaya worth visiting?

Yes. It is the most impressive historical site within easy reach of Bangkok, a UNESCO-listed capital of brick prangs and toppled Buddhas that you can cycle around in a day. If you only add one trip outside Bangkok and you like history, this is the one.

Can you do Ayutthaya as a day trip from Bangkok?

Easily. Trains take 1 to 2 hours from Krung Thep Aphiwat station and minivans about 90 minutes, so leaving at 7am gives you a full day and an evening return. Staying one night is better if you want both sunrise at the ruins and sunset at Wat Chaiwatthanaram.

Where is the Buddha head in the tree?

At Wat Mahathat in the centre of the historical park. The sandstone head sits at ground level in banyan roots, and you must crouch so your head is lower than the Buddha's when photographing it, which staff enforce. Come at opening time to get it without a queue.

How much does Ayutthaya cost?

Each major temple charges around 50 baht, roughly $1.50 USD, or you can buy a combined pass covering six sites for about 220 baht. Bicycle rental is about $2 a day, tuk-tuk hire $8 to $10 an hour, and a sunset boat tour $6 to $12. A full day trip from Bangkok comfortably fits $30 to $40.

How do you get around Ayutthaya?

Bicycles are the classic choice on the flat island and cover the central temples fine. Scooters or an hourly tuk-tuk make more sense in peak heat or for the western riverside temples. A long-tail boat loop is the best way to see Wat Chaiwatthanaram and Wat Phutthaisawan at dusk.

How many temples should you visit in Ayutthaya?

Four or five is plenty for one day: Wat Mahathat, Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Ratchaburana, Wat Lokayasutharam and Wat Chaiwatthanaram at sunset. Trying to see everything in the heat leads to temple fatigue by lunchtime.

When is the best time to visit Ayutthaya?

November to February, when it is dry and slightly cooler. March to May is extremely hot with little shade among the ruins, and the rainy season from June to October brings afternoon downpours and occasional flooding near the rivers. Whatever the month, go early morning or late afternoon.

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