Ayutthaya in 3 days

A ruined royal capital of brick prangs, headless Buddhas and the tree-root Buddha head. Best time to visit: November-February. Average daily budget: $25 to $70 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Historical Park (island core), Wat Mahathat, Wat Ratchaburana and Wat Phra Si Sanphet within walking distance.

Morning: Wat Mahathat. The sandstone Buddha head entwined in banyan roots, plus rows of ruined chedis.

Afternoon: Explore Historical Park (island core), Wat Mahathat, Wat Ratchaburana and Wat Phra Si Sanphet within walking distance.

Evening: Wat Chaiwatthanaram. Khmer-style riverside prangs, unbeatable at sunset.

Eat: Kuay teow ruea, the intense Ayutthaya boat noodles

Day 2, Go deeper

Base: Naresuan Soi 2, The guesthouse strip with bike rental, bars and travellers' cafes.

Morning: Wat Phra Si Sanphet. Three restored royal chedis, the emblem of the old palace complex.

Afternoon: Explore Naresuan Soi 2, The guesthouse strip with bike rental, bars and travellers' cafes.

Evening: Sunset river cruise. A long-tail loop past the temples that face the water.

Eat: Roti sai mai, candy-floss wrapped in thin pancakes, the local sweet

Day 3, Hidden side

Base: Riverside west, Wat Chaiwatthanaram and Wat Phutthaisawan across the water, best at sunset.

Morning: Wat Lokayasutharam's 42m reclining Buddha, open-air and often empty.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Riverside west, Wat Chaiwatthanaram and Wat Phutthaisawan across the water, best at sunset.

Evening: Wat Phu Khao Thong, a white chedi you can climb for a rice-field panorama.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Giant river prawns grilled over charcoal

Hidden gems

Wat Lokayasutharam's 42m reclining Buddha, open-air and often empty.
Wat Phu Khao Thong, a white chedi you can climb for a rice-field panorama.
The Portuguese and Japanese settlement sites south of the island.
Ayothaya floating market for a low-key evening meal.

Getting around

Trains from Bangkok's Krung Thep Aphiwat station take 1 to 2 hours and cost a couple of dollars; minivans from Mo Chit are similar. On the island, rent a bicycle for about $2 a day or a scooter for $6, or hire a tuk-tuk by the hour for roughly $8 to $10 to cover the spread-out western temples. Boat tours leave from the guesthouse area in the late afternoon.

Safety

Heat is the main risk: temperatures regularly top 35C with no shade among the ruins, so carry water and go early or late. Cycling on the main roads means sharing with fast traffic, so stick to the quieter park lanes. Dress respectfully at active temples with shoulders and knees covered, and never climb on Buddha images or pose with your head above one, which is a genuine offence.

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