Granada in 5 days

Home of the Alhambra: Moorish palaces, hillside Albaicín lanes, free tapas and flamenco in the caves of Sacromonte. Best time to visit: April-June and September-October. Average daily budget: $70 to $130 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Albaicín, The old Moorish quarter: white houses, narrow lanes and sunset viewpoints.

Morning: The Alhambra & Generalife. Spain's most visited monument: Nasrid palaces, fortress and gardens.

Afternoon: Explore Albaicín, The old Moorish quarter: white houses, narrow lanes and sunset viewpoints.

Evening: Sunset at Mirador de San Nicolás. The classic view of the Alhambra against the mountains.

Eat: Free tapas with every drink in the old-school bars

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: Realejo, The former Jewish quarter, full of street art and lively tapas bars.

Morning: Flamenco in a Sacromonte cave. Raw zambra flamenco in the gypsy caves above the city.

Afternoon: Explore Realejo, The former Jewish quarter, full of street art and lively tapas bars.

Evening: Free-tapas bar crawl. Order drinks and let the kitchen bring the food, bar to bar.

Eat: Plato alpujarreño, the hearty mountain platter

Day 3, Local neighbourhoods

Base: Sacromonte, Hillside cave dwellings and the home of zambra flamenco.

Morning: The Arab baths (Hammam Al Ándalus) for a candlelit soak.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Sacromonte, Hillside cave dwellings and the home of zambra flamenco.

Evening: Tea houses (teterías) along Calle Calderería Nueva.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Piononos, the sweet little cream cakes from nearby Santa Fe

Day 4, Day trip or nature

Base: Centro, Around the cathedral and Alcaicería, the old silk market lanes.

Morning: The Carmen de los Mártires gardens, free and often empty.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Centro, Around the cathedral and Alcaicería, the old silk market lanes.

Evening: A walk along the Carrera del Darro at dusk, the city's prettiest street.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Local Sierra Nevada-grown ham and cheese

Day 5, Slow finish

Base: Sierra Nevada (nearby), Europe's southernmost ski resort, an easy day trip in season.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Sierra Nevada (nearby), then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Sierra Nevada (nearby), Europe's southernmost ski resort, an easy day trip in season.

Evening: Dinner at Free tapas with every drink in the old-school bars, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Sierra Nevada (nearby).

Eat: Free tapas with every drink in the old-school bars

Hidden gems

The Arab baths (Hammam Al Ándalus) for a candlelit soak.
Tea houses (teterías) along Calle Calderería Nueva.
The Carmen de los Mártires gardens, free and often empty.
A walk along the Carrera del Darro at dusk, the city's prettiest street.

Getting around

The historic centre is compact and walkable, though the Albaicín and Sacromonte are steep and cobbled, so wear good shoes. Small red minibuses (the C lines) loop up the hills if you don't fancy the climb. There's no need for a car in the city; day trips to Sierra Nevada run by bus.

Safety

Granada is very safe. The main annoyances are persistent rosemary-sprig sellers near viewpoints (politely decline) and pickpockets in busy tapas streets. The Albaicín's maze of lanes is easy to get lost in at night, so keep your phone charged for navigation.

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