Koh Chang in 3 days

Thailand's jungle island: empty beaches, waterfalls and slow island life. Best time to visit: November to April. Average daily budget: $40 to $90.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: White Sand Beach (Hat Sai Khao), The longest and most developed beach, with the most hotels, restaurants and a proper sunset strip.

Morning: Beach hop down the west coast. White Sand to Klong Prao, Kai Bae and Lonely Beach by songthaew or scooter, swimming as you go.

Afternoon: Explore White Sand Beach (Hat Sai Khao), The longest and most developed beach, with the most hotels, restaurants and a proper sunset strip.

Evening: Watch sunset from a west coast beach bar. Beanbags, a cold Singha and the sun dropping into the Gulf of Thailand.

Eat: Beachfront seafood BBQ: whole grilled fish, prawns and som tam at sunset

Day 2, Go deeper

Base: Klong Prao and Kai Bae, The mid island family beaches: long sand, kayaks in the estuary and a relaxed village feel.

Morning: Swim at Klong Plu waterfall. The island's big three tier fall with a natural pool, a 20 minute jungle walk from Klong Prao.

Afternoon: Explore Klong Prao and Kai Bae, The mid island family beaches: long sand, kayaks in the estuary and a relaxed village feel.

Evening: Kayak the Klong Prao estuary. Paddle the mangrove river at dusk when the fireflies come out.

Eat: Massaman and green curries at the family run kitchens in Kai Bae

Day 3, Hidden side

Base: Lonely Beach and Bailan, The backpacker south: budget bungalows, beach bars and the island's social scene.

Morning: Snorkel the Koh Rang islands. Day boat trips to the marine park south of Koh Chang: clear water, coral gardens and lunch on board.

Afternoon: Explore Lonely Beach and Bailan, The backpacker south: budget bungalows, beach bars and the island's social scene.

Evening: Trek the jungle interior. Guided hikes to Khao Salak Phet or the remote east coast waterfalls with a local guide.

Eat: Roti and fruit shakes from the evening stalls in Lonely Beach village

Hidden gems

Long Beach and the empty southeast coast past Salak Phet
The mangrove walkway and seafood stilt village at Salak Khok
Klong Nonsi waterfall on the quiet east coast
The tree top adventure park ziplines near Bailan

Getting around

From Bangkok, buses and minivans run from Ekkamai and Khao San to Trat's Centrepoint or Ao Thammachat piers (5 to 6 hours including the 30 minute ferry). On the island, white songthaews run the west coast until evening; scooters rent for $7 to $10 a day. The east coast is quiet and best by scooter.

Safety

Koh Chang is safe and laid back. The real risks are scooters: the island's hills are steep with sharp bends, so ride slowly, wear a helmet and skip it entirely if inexperienced. Jellyfish appear mainly in rainy season, currents can be strong off the southern beaches, and sandflies bite at dusk; bring repellent.

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