Koh Tao in 7 days

The world's cheapest place to learn to dive: granite coves, coral bays and a laid-back island the size of a walk. Best time to visit: March-September. Average daily budget: $35 to $90 USD.

Day 1, Land & wander

Base: Sairee Beach, The long west-coast strip: dive schools, beach bars, sunset and most of the island's energy.

Morning: Get PADI Open Water certified. Four days, warm shallow water and among the lowest prices anywhere in the world.

Afternoon: Explore Sairee Beach, The long west-coast strip: dive schools, beach bars, sunset and most of the island's energy.

Evening: John-Suwan viewpoint at sunset. A short scramble to the island's best panorama over two bays at once.

Eat: Fresh grilled seafood on Sairee beach at sunset

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: Mae Haad, The ferry port and main village, with restaurants, banks and the road to everywhere.

Morning: Dive Chumphon Pinnacle or Sail Rock. Granite pinnacles with barracuda, groupers and, in season, whale sharks.

Afternoon: Explore Mae Haad, The ferry port and main village, with restaurants, banks and the road to everywhere.

Evening: Koh Nang Yuan viewpoint. Climb the rocks above the sandbar linking the three islets.

Eat: Massaman curry at a family restaurant in Mae Haad

Day 3, Food & markets

Base: Chalok Baan Kao, A quieter southern bay with good food and a mellower crowd.

Morning: Freediving courses, quieter and cheaper here than almost anywhere in Asia.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Chalok Baan Kao, A quieter southern bay with good food and a mellower crowd.

Evening: Hin Wong Bay for shore snorkelling over healthy coral with barely anyone around.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Som tam and sticky rice from a roadside stall

Day 4, Local neighbourhoods

Base: Tanote Bay, East coast: clear snorkelling water, big granite boulders and few crowds.

Morning: The Mango Bay viewpoint hike, steep and sweaty but empty at dawn.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Tanote Bay, East coast: clear snorkelling water, big granite boulders and few crowds.

Evening: Sunday afternoons at the south-end beach bars, before the Sairee crowd arrives.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Post-dive banana pancakes and iced Thai coffee

Day 5, Day trip

Base: Koh Nang Yuan, The three-islets sandbar just offshore, the island's most photographed spot.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Koh Nang Yuan, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Koh Nang Yuan, The three-islets sandbar just offshore, the island's most photographed spot.

Evening: Dinner at Fresh grilled seafood on Sairee beach at sunset, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Koh Nang Yuan.

Eat: Fresh grilled seafood on Sairee beach at sunset

Day 6, Hidden gems

Base: Sairee Beach, The long west-coast strip: dive schools, beach bars, sunset and most of the island's energy.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Sairee Beach, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Sairee Beach, The long west-coast strip: dive schools, beach bars, sunset and most of the island's energy.

Evening: Dinner at Massaman curry at a family restaurant in Mae Haad, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Sairee Beach.

Eat: Massaman curry at a family restaurant in Mae Haad

Day 7, Slow finish

Base: Mae Haad, The ferry port and main village, with restaurants, banks and the road to everywhere.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Mae Haad, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Mae Haad, The ferry port and main village, with restaurants, banks and the road to everywhere.

Evening: Dinner at Som tam and sticky rice from a roadside stall, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Mae Haad.

Eat: Som tam and sticky rice from a roadside stall

Hidden gems

Freediving courses, quieter and cheaper here than almost anywhere in Asia.
Hin Wong Bay for shore snorkelling over healthy coral with barely anyone around.
The Mango Bay viewpoint hike, steep and sweaty but empty at dawn.
Sunday afternoons at the south-end beach bars, before the Sairee crowd arrives.

Getting around

There's no airport: reach Koh Tao by catamaran from Chumphon on the mainland (1.5 to 2 hours), from Koh Samui (1.5 hours) or Koh Phangan (1 hour), with combined bus-boat tickets from Bangkok. On the island, most people walk or hire a scooter, though the steep, sandy roads cause a lot of accidents; taxi pickups and longtail boats to remote bays are the safer option.

Safety

The biggest risk here is a scooter, not the sea: roads are steep, gravelly and unforgiving, and travel insurance often won't cover you without a motorbike licence. Choose dive schools with good safety records rather than the cheapest quote, and never fly within 18 to 24 hours of your last dive. Sun and dehydration hit hard; the reef needs reef-safe sunscreen. Watch for jellyfish notices at the beaches.

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