Lhasa in 3 days

The rooftop of the world: Potala Palace, pilgrim circuits and Himalayan skies. Best time to visit: May to October. Average daily budget: $70 to $140.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Barkhor Old Town, The pilgrim circuit around Jokhang Temple, ringed with prayer flag shops, teahouses and courtyard guesthouses.

Morning: Join the Barkhor kora at dawn. Walk the pilgrim circuit with locals prostrating, spinning wheels and circling the Jokhang as the sun rises.

Afternoon: Explore Barkhor Old Town, The pilgrim circuit around Jokhang Temple, ringed with prayer flag shops, teahouses and courtyard guesthouses.

Evening: Visit Jokhang Temple. Tibet's holiest temple, home to the golden Jowo Buddha statue and rooftop views over the old town.

Eat: Momos, steamed or fried dumplings, at the teahouses around the Barkhor

Day 2, Go deeper

Base: Potala Palace District, The area beneath the palace, with the kora path, Chakpori hill viewpoint and quiet parks.

Morning: Climb the Potala Palace. The thousand room former home of the Dalai Lamas: book the timed morning slot and take the stairs slowly.

Afternoon: Explore Potala Palace District, The area beneath the palace, with the kora path, Chakpori hill viewpoint and quiet parks.

Evening: Watch the debate at Sera Monastery. Monks debate Buddhist philosophy with dramatic hand claps every weekday afternoon in the courtyard.

Eat: Thukpa, the hand pulled noodle soup that fuels cold mornings

Day 3, Hidden side

Base: East Lhasa, The modern Chinese quarter with wider streets, bigger hotels and the best restaurant choice.

Morning: Drink butter tea in a local teahouse. Sweet milk tea by the thermos, momos and people watching in the teahouses off Beijing East Road.

Afternoon: Explore East Lhasa, The modern Chinese quarter with wider streets, bigger hotels and the best restaurant choice.

Evening: Day trip to Drepung Monastery. Once the world's largest monastery, a whitewashed hillside city of chapels 8 kilometres west of town.

Eat: Yak meat hotpot in the restaurants along Beijing East Road

Hidden gems

Norbulingka, the summer palace gardens where locals picnic in summer
Pabonka Monastery on a boulder hill with the best Potala view
The Muslim quarter's night market near the small mosque
Ani Tsankhung nunnery's quiet courtyard just off the Barkhor

Getting around

Foreign travellers must enter Tibet on a prearranged tour with a Tibet Travel Permit, booked through a licensed agency at least two to three weeks ahead; independent travel is not permitted. The train from Xining (about 21 hours) helps acclimatisation; flights land at Gonggar airport, an hour from the city. Within Lhasa, the old town is walkable and taxis are cheap.

Safety

Altitude is the main risk: spend your first day or two resting, hydrate, avoid alcohol, and consider acetazolamide after consulting a doctor. Lhasa itself is very safe with a visible security presence; carry your passport and permits at all times, and be aware that photography inside temples and of police or military sites is restricted.

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