Lisbon in 3 days

Pastel hills, Atlantic light, and the most underrated food scene in Europe. Best time to visit: April-June and September-October. Average daily budget: $70 to $110 USD.

Arrive, settle, walk Baixa & Chiado

Morning: Land at LIS, metro red line to Saldanha, change to yellow for Baixa-Chiado. Drop bags, espresso at A Brasileira.

Afternoon: Walk Rua Augusta to the river. Climb to Miradouro de Santa Catarina via the Bica funicular.

Evening: Dinner at Taberna da Rua das Flores. Drinks at Pensão Amor. Bed early, tomorrow's a hill day.

Eat: Bifana at O Trevo (Praça Luís de Camões), €2.50, mustard, hot bread.

Alfama, the cathedral and fado

Morning: Walk Alfama from the top down. Castelo de São Jorge at opening (9am). Coffee at Pois Café.

Afternoon: Sé cathedral, then aimless wander through tile alleys. Late lunch at Ti-Natércia.

Evening: Sunset at Portas do Sol. Fado at A Baiuca (book ahead) or Mesa de Frades.

Eat: Pastéis de nata at Manteigaria, not Belém, if the queue is long.

Belém + LX Factory

Morning: Tram 15E to Belém. Jerónimos Monastery at opening, then the Tower. Pastel de Belém standing at the counter, not in the queue.

Afternoon: MAAT museum riverside walk. Tram back to LX Factory.

Evening: Dinner at Cantina LX, drinks at Rio Maravilha rooftop, sunset over the bridge.

Eat: Grilled sardines at Taberna da Rua das Flores (June only, sardine season).

Hidden gems

Mesa de Frades - fado in a converted chapel, 30 seats.
Embaixada - palace turned concept store in Príncipe Real.
Praia do Guincho - wild Atlantic beach 30 minutes by bike from Cascais.
Pensão Amor - pink velvet bar inside an old brothel.
LARGO Residências in Intendente, community arts hostel, locals hang out at the café downstairs.
Cervejaria Ramiro after midnight, Lisbon's seafood institution, no reservations, less wait late.
Lavra Funicular at dawn, empty, free with your transit card, deposits you at a perfect viewpoint.

Getting around

Buy a Viva Viagem card on arrival (€0.50 + top-up). It works on metro, bus, tram, the Belém train and most ferries. A 24-hour pass is €6.80 if you'll do more than three rides. Walk where you can - Lisbon is hills, but every climb is a view. Bolt is cheaper than Uber for longer rides, €5-7 across the centre.

Safety

Very safe overall. Watch for pickpockets on Tram 28 and in crowded miradouros. Solo travellers, including women, generally feel comfortable here at night in Chiado, Príncipe Real, Bairro Alto and Graça. Avoid Martim Moniz square late at night and don't leave drinks unattended in Bairro Alto bars.

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