Siargao in 5 days

Cloud 9 barrels, coconut roads and rock pools: the Philippines' surf island that never quite grew up. Best time to visit: March-October. Average daily budget: $35 to $100 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: General Luna (GL), The main hub: cafes, hostels, bars and the closest base to Cloud 9.

Morning: Surf or watch Cloud 9. The famous right-hand barrel, with a boardwalk to watch from if you're not paddling out.

Afternoon: Explore General Luna (GL), The main hub: cafes, hostels, bars and the closest base to Cloud 9.

Evening: Island hop to Naked, Daku and Guyam. A three-island boat day with grilled lunch on the sand.

Eat: Kinilaw with coconut milk, the island version of ceviche

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: Cloud 9 / Catangnan, The boardwalk and reef break, with surf schools and beachfront stays.

Morning: Magpupungko rock pools. A huge natural tidal pool revealed only at low tide, with a cliff jump.

Afternoon: Explore Cloud 9 / Catangnan, The boardwalk and reef break, with surf schools and beachfront stays.

Evening: Sugba Lagoon. Jade-green water in the mangroves, with a diving board and paddleboards.

Eat: Grilled tuna jaw and fresh lobster at Kermit and the GL grills

Day 3, Local neighbourhoods

Base: Malinao / Pacifico, North-east coast: quieter swells, empty beaches and rustic resorts.

Morning: The coconut-palm viewpoint on the road to Pilar, an ocean of palms in every direction.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Malinao / Pacifico, North-east coast: quieter swells, empty beaches and rustic resorts.

Evening: Tayangban cave pool, a wade-and-swim through a dark cave to a jungle pool.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Sinugba seafood at Dapa market, priced by the kilo

Day 4, Day trip or nature

Base: Union / Del Carmen, The mangrove forest side, near the airport and the Sugba Lagoon boats.

Morning: Pacifico beach break for beginners once GL gets crowded.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Union / Del Carmen, The mangrove forest side, near the airport and the Sugba Lagoon boats.

Evening: Maasin river's leaning palm and rope swing, best early before the tour vans.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Buko juice straight from the shell, the island's default drink

Day 5, Slow finish

Base: Dapa, The port town for ferries from Surigao, with local markets and cheap eats.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Dapa, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Dapa, The port town for ferries from Surigao, with local markets and cheap eats.

Evening: Dinner at Kinilaw with coconut milk, the island version of ceviche, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Dapa.

Eat: Kinilaw with coconut milk, the island version of ceviche

Hidden gems

The coconut-palm viewpoint on the road to Pilar, an ocean of palms in every direction.
Tayangban cave pool, a wade-and-swim through a dark cave to a jungle pool.
Pacifico beach break for beginners once GL gets crowded.
Maasin river's leaning palm and rope swing, best early before the tour vans.

Getting around

Fly into Sayak Airport (IAO) in Del Carmen from Manila, Cebu or Clark, then take a 45-minute van to General Luna. The alternative is a 2Go or fastcraft ferry from Surigao City to Dapa. Once here, everyone rents a scooter, roads are paved and scenic but slick when wet. Habal-habal motorbike taxis and tricycles cover short hops.

Safety

Scooter crashes are by far the biggest risk: ride slowly, wear a helmet, and check your travel insurance covers you without a local licence. The reef at Cloud 9 is shallow and sharp, so beginners should learn at Jacking Horse or Pacifico. Typhoon season runs roughly November to February and can close the airport. ATMs are limited and often empty, so bring cash. Tap water is not drinkable.

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