Tbilisi in 5 days

Crossroads of Europe and Asia: sulphur baths, natural wine, and Old World charm at backpacker prices. Best time to visit: May-June and September-October. Average daily budget: $30 to $70 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Old Town (Kala), Cobbled, balconied, wrapped beneath Narikala fortress and the baths.

Morning: Soak in a sulphur bath. Book a private room at Abanotubani, the city's warm-spring ritual.

Afternoon: Explore Old Town (Kala), Cobbled, balconied, wrapped beneath Narikala fortress and the baths.

Evening: Natural-wine bar crawl. Georgia's qvevri wines are unlike anything else, start in Vera or Marjanishvili.

Eat: Khinkali (soup dumplings), twist off the doughy top knot

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: Abanotubani, The sulphur bath district, with its brick domes and warm springs.

Morning: Narikala fortress. Ride the cable car up for the old-town panorama, walk down through the lanes.

Afternoon: Explore Abanotubani, The sulphur bath district, with its brick domes and warm springs.

Evening: Day trip to Mtskheta. The ancient capital and its UNESCO churches, 30 minutes away.

Eat: Khachapuri Adjaruli, the boat-shaped cheese-and-egg bread

Day 3, Local neighbourhoods

Base: Sololaki, Faded grand mansions, hidden courtyards and Art Nouveau doors.

Morning: The Chronicle of Georgia, towering monoliths on a hill above the city.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Sololaki, Faded grand mansions, hidden courtyards and Art Nouveau doors.

Evening: Fabrika, a Soviet sewing factory turned hostel and courtyard hangout.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Mtsvadi (grilled pork skewers) with tkemali plum sauce

Day 4, Day trip or nature

Base: Vera, Leafy, residential, the best café and brunch streets.

Morning: A supra (feast) with endless toasts if a local invites you, say yes.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Vera, Leafy, residential, the best café and brunch streets.

Evening: Dezerter Bazaar for cheese, churchkhela and spices.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Qvevri natural wine, amber and unfiltered

Day 5, Slow finish

Base: Marjanishvili, Up-and-coming, bohemian, natural-wine bars and galleries.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Marjanishvili, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Marjanishvili, Up-and-coming, bohemian, natural-wine bars and galleries.

Evening: Dinner at Khinkali (soup dumplings), twist off the doughy top knot, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Marjanishvili.

Eat: Khinkali (soup dumplings), twist off the doughy top knot

Hidden gems

The Chronicle of Georgia, towering monoliths on a hill above the city.
Fabrika, a Soviet sewing factory turned hostel and courtyard hangout.
A supra (feast) with endless toasts if a local invites you, say yes.
Dezerter Bazaar for cheese, churchkhela and spices.

Getting around

The old town is walkable but steep; the metro is dirt-cheap for longer hops and Bolt taxis cost a few dollars across town. For day trips to Mtskheta, the cave city of Uplistsikhe, or Kakheti wine country, hire a Bolt or join a small-group tour, distances are short.

Safety

Tbilisi is very safe with low crime, and Georgians are famously hospitable. Solo women travel comfortably here. Watch your footing on uneven old-town cobbles and steep lanes, use Bolt rather than unmetered street taxis, and carry some cash as smaller venues are card-shy. Occasional political demonstrations are best avoided.

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