Mount Fuji in 3 days

Japan's sacred volcano, viewed from lakes, onsen towns and its own slopes. Best time to visit: April to May and October to November. Average daily budget: $90 to $160.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Kawaguchiko, The main lake town with the best access, most hotels, the Mt Fuji Panoramic Ropeway and lake cruises.

Morning: Shoot the Chureito Pagoda view. The five storied pagoda with Fuji behind it is Japan's most photographed scene; 400 steps up from Shimoyoshida station, best at dawn in cherry blossom or autumn color.

Afternoon: Explore Kawaguchiko, The main lake town with the best access, most hotels, the Mt Fuji Panoramic Ropeway and lake cruises.

Evening: Ride the Mt Fuji Panoramic Ropeway. A three minute cable car on Kawaguchiko's edge with sweeping lake and volcano views, plus the famous dango stand at the top.

Eat: Hoto noodles, flat wheat noodles in miso broth with pumpkin and greens, the local specialty

Day 2, Go deeper

Base: Yamanakako, Quieter eastern lake with swan boats, lakeside cycling and classic mountain reflections.

Morning: Climb to the summit (July to early September). The official climbing season opens the Yoshida, Subashiri, Gotemba and Fujinomiya trails; most climbers start in the afternoon, sleep in a mountain hut and summit for sunrise.

Afternoon: Explore Yamanakako, Quieter eastern lake with swan boats, lakeside cycling and classic mountain reflections.

Evening: Cycle or cruise around Lake Kawaguchi. Rent a bike for the flat 20 kilometre lakeside loop, or take the pleasure boat for water level views of the cone.

Eat: Yoshida udon, chewy noodles with firm fried tofu and marrow

Day 3, Hidden side

Base: Fujinomiya, The historic shrine town on the south side, home to Mt Fuji's most important shrine and Shiraito Falls.

Morning: Soak in an onsen with a Fuji view. Ryokan and day use baths around the lakes pair hot spring soaking with the mountain, most famously at open air baths facing the summit.

Afternoon: Explore Fujinomiya, The historic shrine town on the south side, home to Mt Fuji's most important shrine and Shiraito Falls.

Evening: Visit Shiraito Falls and Fujisan Hongu Sengen Taisha. A curtain of spring water seeping through lava rock, 20 minutes from Fuji's oldest and most important shrine in Fujinomiya.

Eat: Grilled ayu sweetfish from the mountain streams

Hidden gems

Oshino Hakkai's eight crystal spring ponds in a preserved village
The Fujiyama museum and retro bus routes around Lake Sai's quiet west shore
Narusawa Ice Cave and Fugaku Wind Cave, lava tunnels cool even in August
Momiji Tunnel on Kawaguchiko's north shore, a corridor of red maples in November

Getting around

The Fujikyu railway from Shinjuku (about 2 hours, 2,200 yen) or highway buses (about 2 hours, 2,200 yen) reach Kawaguchiko station. Local retro buses and the Fujikyu line link the lakes and trailheads; a two day sightseeing bus pass pays off. For climbing, direct buses run to the Yoshida trail fifth station in season. A car helps for the south side and Oshino.

Safety

Fuji sightseeing is easy and safe; climbing is not casual. In season, reserve huts and watch for afternoon storms and altitude sickness above 3,000 metres. Out of season the trails are officially closed and genuinely dangerous. Winter driving around the lakes needs caution, and typhoons in September can close cable cars.

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