Trujillo in 5 days

Peru's colonial north: Chan Chan ruins, Pacific surf, and ceviche that rivals Lima at half the price. Best time to visit: April-December. Average daily budget: $35 to $60 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Centro Histórico, The colonial core around Plaza de Armas with the cathedral, museums and the best ceviche restaurants. The best base for first-timers.

Morning: Explore Chan Chan. The world's largest adobe city, built by the Chimú civilization. The Palacio Amurallado Nik An is the most restored section. Go early, it gets hot by 11am.

Afternoon: Explore Centro Histórico, The colonial core around Plaza de Armas with the cathedral, museums and the best ceviche restaurants. The best base for first-timers.

Evening: Surf at Huanchaco. Gentle longboard waves, warm water and a 3,000-year tradition of caballito de totora reed boats. Board rentals and lessons are cheap.

Eat: Ceviche norteño with aji limo, lime, onion and crispy cancha corn, the definitive Trujillo dish

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: Huanchaco, The surf and fishing village 15 minutes from the city, with reed-boat fishermen, longboard waves and a relaxed beach-town vibe.

Morning: Ceviche at El Mochica or El Fary. Northern Peruvian ceviche is spicier, tangier and served with crunchy cancha corn. Eat it before 2pm, when the fish is freshest.

Afternoon: Explore Huanchaco, The surf and fishing village 15 minutes from the city, with reed-boat fishermen, longboard waves and a relaxed beach-town vibe.

Evening: Huacas del Sol y de la Luna. Two massive Moche pyramids 10km from the city. The murals at Huaca de la Luna are vivid and barely excavated. Combine with a stop at the artisan village.

Eat: Shambar, a thick wheat and pork soup traditionally eaten on Mondays, a Trujillo institution

Day 3, Local neighbourhoods

Base: El Ovalo, A modern commercial district with shopping malls and chain restaurants. Convenient but charmless, better for a hotel than for exploring.

Morning: Free walking tour of the colonial centre. Covers Trujillo's independence history, the colonial mansions and why this was the first city in Peru to declare independence from Spain.

Afternoon: Explore El Ovalo, A modern commercial district with shopping malls and chain restaurants. Convenient but charmless, better for a hotel than for exploring.

Evening: Surf and ceviche at Huanchaco. The nearby beach town of Huanchaco is a laid-back surf spot famous for its reed fishing boats (caballitos de totora) and fresh ceviche.

Eat: Cabra con arroz, slow-cooked goat with rice and beans, found at local markets and traditional restaurants

Day 4, Day trip or nature

Base: Centro Histórico, The colonial core around Plaza de Armas with the cathedral, museums and the best ceviche restaurants. The best base for first-timers.

Morning: The El Brujo archaeological site, a Moche complex with a stunning, well-preserved polychrome mural of a priestess, rarely visited compared to Chan Chan.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Centro Histórico, The colonial core around Plaza de Armas with the cathedral, museums and the best ceviche restaurants. The best base for first-timers.

Evening: The artisan village of Huanchaco at dawn, watching fishermen launch their caballitos de totora into the Pacific.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Jalea, crispy fried seafood platter with yuca and salsa criolla, best eaten at Huanchaco beach bars

Day 5, Slow finish

Base: Huanchaco, The surf and fishing village 15 minutes from the city, with reed-boat fishermen, longboard waves and a relaxed beach-town vibe.

Morning: Ceviche at Mercado Mayorista for a fraction of restaurant prices, eaten standing at a plastic table.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Huanchaco, The surf and fishing village 15 minutes from the city, with reed-boat fishermen, longboard waves and a relaxed beach-town vibe.

Evening: The colonial library and archive at the Palacio Iturregui, open to visitors, with original independence documents.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Chicha de jora, the fermented corn drink that predates the Incas, served at traditional picanterías

Hidden gems

The El Brujo archaeological site, a Moche complex with a stunning, well-preserved polychrome mural of a priestess, rarely visited compared to Chan Chan.
The artisan village of Huanchaco at dawn, watching fishermen launch their caballitos de totora into the Pacific.
Ceviche at Mercado Mayorista for a fraction of restaurant prices, eaten standing at a plastic table.
The colonial library and archive at the Palacio Iturregui, open to visitors, with original independence documents.
Sunset at the Huanchaco pier with a cold Cristal beer and freshly fried jalea.

Getting around

Trujillo's centre is walkable. Taxis are cheap ($2-4) but negotiate or use Uber for longer trips. Combis and buses run to Huanchaco and the ruins. To Chan Chan and Huacas del Sol y la Luna, hire a taxi for half a day or join a local tour. The airport has flights to Lima. Overnight buses connect to Lima (9 hours), Chiclayo and Máncora.

Safety

Trujillo is generally safe but requires more caution than Sucre or Cuenca. Avoid walking alone late at night in the centre. Use registered taxis or Uber. At Huanchaco, watch your belongings on the beach. The north coast sun is intense, use high-SPF sunscreen.

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