Zaragoza in 5 days

Spain's underrated fifth city: Roman ruins, a Moorish palace and a riverside basilica with almost no queues. Best time to visit: April-June and September-October. Average daily budget: $85 to $150 USD.

Day 1, Get oriented

Base: Casco Historico, The old town: Basilica del Pilar, the cathedral, Roman theatre and El Tubo, all walkable.

Morning: Basilica del Pilar. Enormous, free to enter, and worth paying a few euros to ride the tower lift for a view over the Ebro.

Afternoon: Explore Casco Historico, The old town: Basilica del Pilar, the cathedral, Roman theatre and El Tubo, all walkable.

Evening: Tapas crawl through El Tubo. One dish and one drink per bar, moving every 20 minutes, the way locals actually eat here.

Eat: Ternasco de Aragon, the local slow-roast lamb

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: El Tubo, A dense knot of lanes off Plaza Espana packed with tapas bars, best after 9pm.

Morning: Aljaferia Palace. An 11th-century Moorish palace, later a royal and Inquisition seat, and a UNESCO Mudejar site.

Afternoon: Explore El Tubo, A dense knot of lanes off Plaza Espana packed with tapas bars, best after 9pm.

Evening: Roman Zaragoza. Caesaraugusta's theatre, forum, baths and river port survive in four small linked museums.

Eat: Migas with grapes and chorizo

Day 3, Local neighbourhoods

Base: Centro & Paseo Independencia, The 19th-century grid for shopping, cafes and most mid-range hotels.

Morning: La Seo cathedral's Mudejar exterior wall, an intricate brick and tile facade most visitors walk straight past.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Centro & Paseo Independencia, The 19th-century grid for shopping, cafes and most mid-range hotels.

Evening: The Goya museum, in the painter's home region, with a strong collection of his prints.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Borrajas, a regional green vegetable you will not find elsewhere

Day 4, Day trip or nature

Base: Delicias, Working-class and multicultural, next to the AVE station, with the cheapest beds and menus in town.

Morning: The riverside walk and Puente de Piedra at dusk, when the basilica lights up in the water.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Delicias, Working-class and multicultural, next to the AVE station, with the cheapest beds and menus in town.

Evening: Mercado Central, a restored iron-and-glass market hall for cheap lunches.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Garnacha wine from nearby Campo de Borja and Carinena

Day 5, Slow finish

Base: Casco Historico, The old town: Basilica del Pilar, the cathedral, Roman theatre and El Tubo, all walkable.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Casco Historico, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Casco Historico, The old town: Basilica del Pilar, the cathedral, Roman theatre and El Tubo, all walkable.

Evening: Dinner at Ternasco de Aragon, the local slow-roast lamb, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Casco Historico.

Eat: Ternasco de Aragon, the local slow-roast lamb

Hidden gems

La Seo cathedral's Mudejar exterior wall, an intricate brick and tile facade most visitors walk straight past.
The Goya museum, in the painter's home region, with a strong collection of his prints.
The riverside walk and Puente de Piedra at dusk, when the basilica lights up in the water.
Mercado Central, a restored iron-and-glass market hall for cheap lunches.

Getting around

The old town and centre are flat and easily walked, and a single tram line links the station side to the middle of town. AVE high-speed trains reach Madrid and Barcelona in about 1 hour 20 minutes each, which makes Zaragoza an easy stopover. Buses cover the Aljaferia if you do not want the 20-minute walk.

Safety

Zaragoza is a calm, low-crime Spanish city and comfortable to walk at night in the centre. Petty theft exists around Plaza del Pilar and the train station but at much lower levels than Barcelona or Madrid. Summer heat is the real hazard: July and August routinely pass 38C, so plan sightseeing before noon and after 7pm.

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