Nagoya in 7 days

Japan's underrated third city: samurai castles, miso-heavy cuisine and the industrial heart of Toyota country. Best time to visit: March-May & October-November. Average daily budget: $70 to $150 USD.

Day 1, Land & wander

Base: Nagoya Castle & Meijo, The reconstructed keep, restored Hommaru Palace and the surrounding park.

Morning: Nagoya Castle and Hommaru Palace. The lavishly recreated shogunate palace with gold-leaf screens beneath the golden shachihoko.

Afternoon: Explore Nagoya Castle & Meijo, The reconstructed keep, restored Hommaru Palace and the surrounding park.

Evening: Toyota Commemorative Museum. Looms to robots, the best industrial museum in Japan and genuinely fun for non-car people.

Eat: Hitsumabushi, grilled eel over rice eaten three different ways

Day 2, Iconic sights

Base: Sakae, The downtown core of department stores, the TV tower, Oasis 21 and nightlife.

Morning: Atsuta Shrine. A 1,900-year-old cedar-shaded shrine holding one of the imperial regalia swords.

Afternoon: Explore Sakae, The downtown core of department stores, the TV tower, Oasis 21 and nightlife.

Evening: Eat the Nagoya-meshi circuit. Hitsumabushi eel, miso katsu, tebasaki wings and Taiwan ramen in one delicious day.

Eat: Miso katsu and doteni, pork in rich red Hatcho miso

Day 3, Food & markets

Base: Osu, A covered shopping arcade of vintage clothes, electronics, street food and a temple.

Morning: Ghibli Park in Nagakute, a short train ride out, with timed tickets sold months ahead.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Osu, A covered shopping arcade of vintage clothes, electronics, street food and a temple.

Evening: Tokugawa Art Museum's Tale of Genji scrolls and its adjoining strolling garden.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Tebasaki, peppery sweet-glazed chicken wings

Day 4, Local neighbourhoods

Base: Nagoya Station (Meieki), Skyscrapers, underground malls and the region's transport hub.

Morning: Arimatsu, a preserved Edo-era shibori tie-dye town on the old Tokaido road.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Afternoon: Explore Nagoya Station (Meieki), Skyscrapers, underground malls and the region's transport hub.

Evening: The retro Endoji shopping street for kissaten coffee culture.. A local favourite most visitors miss, worth the detour.

Eat: Ogura toast and the legendary morning-service coffee set

Day 5, Day trip

Base: Atsuta & the Port, The ancient Atsuta Shrine plus the port's aquarium, icebreaker ship and maritime museum.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Atsuta & the Port, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Atsuta & the Port, The ancient Atsuta Shrine plus the port's aquarium, icebreaker ship and maritime museum.

Evening: Dinner at Hitsumabushi, grilled eel over rice eaten three different ways, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Atsuta & the Port.

Eat: Hitsumabushi, grilled eel over rice eaten three different ways

Day 6, Hidden gems

Base: Nagoya Castle & Meijo, The reconstructed keep, restored Hommaru Palace and the surrounding park.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Nagoya Castle & Meijo, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Nagoya Castle & Meijo, The reconstructed keep, restored Hommaru Palace and the surrounding park.

Evening: Dinner at Miso katsu and doteni, pork in rich red Hatcho miso, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Nagoya Castle & Meijo.

Eat: Miso katsu and doteni, pork in rich red Hatcho miso

Day 7, Slow finish

Base: Sakae, The downtown core of department stores, the TV tower, Oasis 21 and nightlife.

Morning: Slow start: coffee in Sakae, then an unhurried walk before the heat or the crowds.

Afternoon: Explore Sakae, The downtown core of department stores, the TV tower, Oasis 21 and nightlife.

Evening: Dinner at Tebasaki, peppery sweet-glazed chicken wings, then a quiet drink wherever the locals are in Sakae.

Eat: Tebasaki, peppery sweet-glazed chicken wings

Hidden gems

Ghibli Park in Nagakute, a short train ride out, with timed tickets sold months ahead.
Tokugawa Art Museum's Tale of Genji scrolls and its adjoining strolling garden.
Arimatsu, a preserved Edo-era shibori tie-dye town on the old Tokaido road.
The retro Endoji shopping street for kissaten coffee culture.

Getting around

Chubu Centrair Airport sits on an artificial island, 30 minutes to the city by Meitetsu train. Nagoya is a shinkansen hub: 100 minutes to Tokyo, 35 to Kyoto. The subway is simple with six lines, and the Donichi Eco Kippu weekend day pass is excellent value. Day trips to Takayama, Ise and Inuyama all run from Nagoya Station.

Safety

Nagoya is very safe, with low crime and reliable infrastructure. Summers are among Japan's hottest and most humid, so plan indoor museums for midday in July and August. The station and underground mall network is enormous and easy to get lost in, so use exit numbers. Typhoon season peaks August to September and can disrupt trains.

Nagoya in 3 days | Nagoya in 5 days | Full Nagoya guide